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The carbs are designed and function like most other Japanese motorcycle carbs so I'm really confused as to what your trying to say. How about some pics of said carbs.

I think he is mixing up the sync adjustment with needle adjustment.

There are a few parts that are different depending on if it's for Canada or the U.S.. That plate 13169 and ring 92027 are for the U.S., as are the washer 92022B and spring 92081C. Not sure why those extra parts are there for the U.S. I doubt that the spring makes the needle adjustable. I would assume it was to take out some slop in the needle due to something different in the needle fixture.

Maybe Martin knows. I think he might have these same carbs.

Two needles are listed. One for Canada, presumably the adjustable one, and one for the U.S. probably not adjustable.

Loudhvx, after re-reading his post I think you're right. He's mistaken the synch adjustment for the needle adjustment.

Big kountry, if everything is stock then you should be sure your needles are correct for the bike and in the correct position. You mentioned that someone was into them, which makes me wonder if they might have raised the needles somehow to get more fuel flow at lower rpms. I have had the same issue you described....the bike bogs out after a quarter throttle when you crack it looking for some acceleration. This is likely due to getting too rich a fuel mixture into the engine at cruising speeds, which is the range where the needles and needle jets are most important.

To check your needles you need to pull the tops off the carbs and remove the throttle slide attachment. The needle is located under the attachment at the bottom of the throttle slide. Usually all needles are the same for all carbs and set in the same notch (assuming you have needles with notches) but in your case, with your initial description I wonder if you shouldn't check all of them. If your needles have no notches there may be a shim placed under the top of the needle to raise it during normal operation. Check for shims. Also, you should be able to read a number on the side of the needle near the top. Let us know what number is on your needles.

I was mistaking the sync for some type of adjustment so I bench synced all the carbs I checked the timing and it looks to be right on all the carb components are stock and I checked them all there is one stock plastic shim under the needle. And the needle is 5cl30 i am sure anything on this bike is completely stock. There is only one spot for the needle shim to be.

I'm not sure why you "bench sync'ed" the carbs, but now you need to adjust the carbs properly with them on the bike. A bench sync can get them in the ball park but in order for them to be properly synced they must be checked and if need be adjusted with the engine running. A bench sync will assure that they are all adjusted exactly the same, but that does not take into account any differences between cylinders as the engine is run. Being exactly the same is not necessarily how they need to be set since they are affected by any differences between the condition of the cylinders and/or valves. I suggest you now synchronize the carbs with them on the engine (so you can run the engine) and see if that improves things. Ed