TOPIC:

So since the rebuild and some early trouble shooting I’ve recently put 500 miles or a little more on. Rode two days ago 80 miles maybe. Been running great. Today - rode 6 miles, got gas and the bike was hard to start. Once it did I rode 15 miles and parked at a store. On the way there the clutch slipped 3x mildly in 2-4th gears. Just as I was powering moderately through those gears felt it slip and then changed gears and it happened again. First time for this. After I left the store it was hard to start again and once i did - started to roll backwards and leave, clicked it in gear and it shut off. Then, pretty sure I flooded the cly trying to start. Friend came to pick me up. 5 hours later I figured , ok let’s try this again. Didn’t get to leave the driveway. In neutral it started , idled , fine. Shut it off. Geared up. Maybe 15 mins. Won’t start, hard as can be to start and boom it starts . Drop it in gear and it dies. Did that 3x and I got pissed and put it back in the garage.

I’m sorry this is long. But my question is what do you guys think? Did I waste the clutches and now it can’t engage ? And why is it hard to start after it is shut off warm? Temp outside has been warm but consistent for 2-3 weeks.

Adjust your clutch push rod mechanism (@ hot engine). Engine heat can expand the clutch components to Zero Play, (cable, push rod and mechanism).

I can do that. Think the clutch with zero play would cause the bike to stall once shifted into gear?

Fuel may have gotten in oil from flooded motor .
Check petcock and carbs . Might allow fuel into motor while sitting on side stand
Is oil level higher than normal
Fuel in oil can make clutch slip
Anyway Need to check more than just clutch
Dave

Have you checked the valve clearances lately? During and since the rebuild? Also, you might want to make sure the fuel tank is venting properly. Regarding the clutch, did you install new springs during the rebuild?

Last night I adjusted the clutch cable and pushrod - it was way out of spec. Surprised me how much that cable can stretch i guess. Clutch springs are not brand new but has probably 250 more miles than the motor. I am fearful that gas got into the oil but no, no increased oil level, if anything its slightly less than it was earlier in the week, not a whole lot different though. Today after work I am going to change the oil just to be safe and ill try to see if it wants to run now that the clutch is re adjusted. I am not as much concerned about the clutch slipping at mid range power as i am the stalling once in gear and the general oddness of how the bike was poorly running yesterday.

Also in Regards to the comment about the petcock, I use a Pingel and keep it shut off. Always like to run the bike for a few seconds with he petcock shut off so there is a little less fuel in the line and bowls that way it doesn't want to spill over on the kick stand. Im sure its not a perfect system but I try and Im generally paranoid about overflowing the fuel.

Rode today about 80 miles. Ran very well once clutch was engaging right. About halfway through the ride I was stopped at a 4 way on a fairly steep hill incline. I partially stalled the bike, just kinda gave it a little throttle at the last minute and it corrected. Almost immediately after it calmed it started to die - sudden loss of power and it stalled. Rolled to a safe place on the shoulder. It didn’t want to run. Back fired twice. I got it to start and i just clutched it up to speed quick and it was great for 40 more miles. Can anyone tell me what might cause sudden loss of power like that? Not electrical as far as headlight and switches but just sudden loss of spark and or fuel. I hate not feeling confident to ride far from home or town.

You never answered the question about the valves...

Ah your right! My bad. No I have not checked the valves. Think that could contribute ? I guess I figured if they were out of spec I’d have a hard time running it period. However I tend to be wrong often. Haha.

And as far as the tank goes I’m not sure how to make sure it’s venting properly? If it wasn’t venting there would be pressure under the cap when I open it correct? I hear and feel no pressure change when I pop the cap open. It is an original cap though. That seems like it could potentially be the problem - pressure builds up and stops the flow of fuel ?

In summer with the bike in the sun, it might build up pressure if plugged, but when running on a highway when you are using significant fuel, the tank deveklops a slight vacuum if the cap is not venting. That vacuum overcomes gravity easily and stops the fuel from flowing. The test is to leave the tank cap cracked open (with tank not full all the way) or to pop the cap when the bike stalls.

Ok so this is interesting. When the bike stalled a few hours ago, just before I got it started again and took off I popped the cap open just out of curious frustration... helmet on I didn’t hear anything. Cap was off for 15 seconds. Might be the issue. Is there a way to unclog or rebuild the cap?

Still kinda curious however intimidated about these valves