Gear box

I had a problem last week that my clutch was getting vey long to the point It was not engaging while a was riding. so I had to stop 3 times before getting home and I managed to get running in 1 gear and the starter button happened that the nut that goes in the middle of the clutch where the ball for the push road goes was loosing creating a play and now I did tighten it up but now the gears are not engaging properly.
sometimes don't want to go upshift and sometimes don't want to downshift.
I am expecting the worse that it might have to open the entire engine to get the transition fixed.
Any thoughts about this matter would be helpfull.

I had the same problem, so hotter the engine so more play i get in the clutch leveler/cable
If the engine is on hot riding contition i had to adjust the clutch leveler/cable play on the leveler screw to get the clutch en-/disengage corecctly.
Later when the engine cool down and restart i have no play in the clutch leveler/cable and the clutch is slipping and i had to adjust the clutch leveler/cable again to get play in the clutch mecanisim. I looks like a heat problem that expand and srink the play in the cluch mechanism.
Maybe a hydraulic clutch conversion will compensate or auto adjust my/your Problem, btw my next bike mod.

What motorcycle is it? I would try the basic clutch adjustment as per the owner's manual or Kawasaki factory service manual.
Some manuals are ambiguous as to which way you're supposed to turn the clutch release adjusting screw >> on some models turn it clockwise first until hard to turn, then counterclockwise 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then tighten the locknut >> that's the natural intuitive way.
But on other models you're supposed to turn it counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 or 1/2 turn. so it kinda seems backwards. My 81 650-CSR is counterclockwise first, then 1/4 turn clockwise, then tighten the locknut.


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Thanks is a 1979 KZ1000

Sayonara wrote: Thanks is a 1979 KZ1000

Same question as your oil breather thread
Is this the 1400cc bike ?
If so you should ad this to your threads as it will impact the answers .
Meaning the Hot motor due to being a big block comes into play in answers , Big motors put out TONS of heat
Dave

Yes it was the 100 cc engine, thank you to all your tips I manage to graduate the clutch as advised and realized that the Raask back step was causing the difficulties with the shifting, it was rusted in the movement part so I disassemble it and sanded nice that solved the movement issue but the base of the movement part goes attached to the plate, this causes that if tighter to hard the movement get stock and if left to loose it might loosen to much or fall when riding with vibration of the engine.
So I put tread lock and tighten the movement ad much necessary to move freely and let it sit for the night so the tread lock dry.
drove it today and the shifting was remarkably easier and shift every gear sit should.
I realized that when I bought the bike it was already an issue that was escalating that was my first impression when I rode that bike that shifting was not easy and the guy told me that it was because the undercut transmission.
Anyway I wanted to let you guys know that its all fixed and the bike its running again.
Thanks for the input