TOPIC:

daveo wrote: I am with you on that, though doing so sooner will be easier than later, given the effects of aging.
Wondering if the 11009-1210 gasket design may help prevent the oil from getting whipped-up and vaporized by the spinning clutch basket, which may minimize oil dissipation through the breather.

Any thoughts on my gasket question?

daveo wrote: Of the two clutch-cover gasket designs available for the J-engines, which is better and why?

11061-1126 is just wide enough to cover the gasket surface.
11009-1210 fits over and around the end of the clutch basket.

,
I would imagine keeping the oil from being aerated would be preferred Dave. Such is the reasoning on automatic transmission fluid levels and the the warnings not to overfill, to keep the fluid levels from being churned in the moving parts. This is to keep oil from getting aerated and the pump from cavitating (growling), and thus low line pressures, with partial clutch pack application.

Makes sense o_k


Image below from the KZ1100 Shaft FSM describes correct orientation when installing OEM Kawasaki friction plates.

daveo wrote: Makes sense o_k

Image below from the KZ1100 Shaft FSM describes correct orientation when installing OEM Kawasaki friction plates.

Thanks for posting this Dave. I did not realize or notice that the plates had a orientation to follow, but it does make sense. I don't know how much difference it can make as far as clutch slippage, but it does have to make at least a little bit of difference. I plan on looking how they are orientated when I take it apart. In all of the threads I have read on rejuvenating the clutch (soaking plates in degreaser , spring pressure, etc.) , you are the first I have noticed to point this little tidbit out. Of course it helps If >I< do more research myself before jumping in with both feet and wondering why stuff doesn't work right. At least I WILL take solid advice that people point me towards.

BUT, Hey! You have 6 clutch springs! I'm Jelly! LOL More, yet slightly weaker springs to go easy on the left hand. :-/ I wonder if I can adapt that setup onto my 81 J motor?


My OEM frictions and steels that I ordered from Partzilla last Sunday came yesterday. I was just opening the package and checking out what NON-counterfeit OEM clutch parts come from the dealer packaging looks like. All individually packaged and clearly marked as genuine Kawasaki parts. Unlike the eBay disclaimer that the original packaging may not be there.

I took a few pics for your viewing pleasure.

9 Frictions:


Back side:


8 Steel plates:


And since I put on my SS Delkevic exhaust, my clutch cable seems to be getting scorched from the header pipe, since it runs hotter that the original double walled exhaust. I wanted an extra cable clip in hopes of keeping the clutch cable away from the header.

old_kaw wrote:

BUT, Hey! You have 6 clutch springs! I'm Jelly! LOL More, yet slightly weaker springs to go easy on the left hand. :-/ I wonder if I can adapt that setup onto my 81 J motor?

Maybe? Based on the following part diagrams the components appear to be quite different:

KZ1000J1: images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/kawasaki...ar089862026_049d.gif
KZ1100A: images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/kawasaki...ar093162104_8ff5.gif

A backup clutch set



Picked up two 13088-1013 5-packs off ebay. $23.98 to my door...couldn't resist.

Am I reading this right? You got 10 OEM clutch frictions for $23.95 with free shipping? That is $2.39 each, delivered.

I paid ~$157.00 for the parts I pictured. You get ALL of the eBay deals Dave! LOL

I had already looked on eBay before I placed my order and did not even come close to a deal like that. All I was finding was what appeared to be counterfeit parts for about the same price that Partzilla was offering. Of course, I will pay a little more (usually freight charges) to make sure I am not buying either very old, or questionable parts.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

old_kaw wrote: Am I reading this right? You got 10 OEM clutch frictions for $23.95 with free shipping? That is $2.39 each, delivered.

.

Three available currently:

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

daveo wrote:

old_kaw wrote: Am I reading this right? You got 10 OEM clutch frictions for $23.95 with free shipping? That is $2.39 each, delivered.

.

Three available currently:

Boom! Done deal. I ordered 2, even though I have the ones from Pricezilla sitting here.

I searched TODAY as I I was replying to your eBay geniusness (new WORD!) and the best deal I found was THIS:


May be missing the original packaging.
Is that a greasy hand print on the plate with the tag on it? The ad does say that they so kindly store the parts inside... Such is the reason I ordered from Partzilla. :-/

I don't know why this stuff doesn't pop when I search flea bay, I guess I always need to check with you first.

old_kaw wrote:
I don't know why this stuff doesn't pop when I search flea bay, I guess I always need to check with you first.

...


Happy to help

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

daveo wrote:

old_kaw wrote: Am I reading this right? You got 10 OEM clutch frictions for $23.95 with free shipping? That is $2.39 each, delivered.

.

Three available currently:

The (2) 5 paks I ordered Sunday came Wednesday, Sooo,


NOW, I am the proud owner of 19 OEM clutch plates. 10 NOS, and 9 obviously NOT old stock from Partzilla.


I don't know if friction material can go bad after 30-40 years, but since I paid top dollar for the Partzilla plates, I am leaning towards using the new stuff and rat-holing the NOS plates.

Any thoughts on NOS friction plates? NOS on the right:


I also ordered in a NOS throttle cable and a Motion Pro 03-0033 clutch cable. I have quite the collection of parts on top my my latest TV repair project on my kitchen table, including a new serpentine belt, idler and new tensioner assembly for my truck (too freakin cold right now to do any of it).. Doesn't everyone? lol

daveo wrote: Makes sense o_k


Image below from the KZ1100 Shaft FSM describes correct orientation when installing OEM Kawasaki friction plates.

I looked through the clutch section again yesterday looking for this info, and I did not see it in either of the two sections that show adjustment, then unscheduled maintenance unless I had to read the entire chapter looking for scattered clutch info. (I did not read the whole chapter LOL) It does show an illustration that depicts the non-directional clutch plates that look like the aftermarket frictions that Jimbo posted of his "kit".Thanks again for calling my attention to this tidbit daveo.

Well I managed to install all of the parts I had laying om my dead TV project except for my dead tv. No biggie, it's just a CL freebie anyway. Anyhow... I managed to install the new clutch plates last week, then install the new clutch cable and re-route it to keep it from getting cooked again by my Delkevic header. AND, as per the info daveo posted on orientation of the directional clutch plates, I had at least half of the 9 installed backwards. I took my bike out Sunday after almost record low temps last week (complete with frozen pipes). Sunday it almost hit 70* F here in the lou. I did not notice any slippage, but did not hammer it too hard, since my bike looks to need the A/F ratio fattened up a tad with the new pipes. I unwrapped all of those plastic bags, and cleaned the cosmoline off of the steels with mineral spirits, then washed them with dish soap and water.

Brand New OEM frictions and steels from Partzilla. Note that they are laid in the pan with the proper orientation and soaking in T-4 Rotella prior to installation. I installed the steels with the sharp edge facing out.


I had at least half of them installed backwards.


This is one cooked cable. No longer moves. lol


This new routing should keep it good for a while. My new pipes look like crap. I may remove them after I fatten it up a tad and try a few compounds with my bench polisher on the bluing.