Clutch cable responsive but clutch plates not depressing

  • newkzrider18
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24 Nov 2018 20:38 #794186 by newkzrider18
Hi folks,
I seem to be running into problem after problem >:|
I had to change my drum brake shoes and after putting the new shoes on I went for a test drive. I noticed that the clutch was REALLY sensitive, like, I accidentally stalled because I let out the clutch lever by maybe an inch? This has never happened before. I drove around the block, being able to move at idle by only letting 1/2" off the clutch lever.
I also noticed that if I held in the lever in 1st it was really hard to move the bike.

Then things got worse...
OK the only thing I remember doing when changing the brakes was the manual told me to take off the engine sprocket cover to gain access to the chain master link, and upon doing this I found the push rod, but didn't know what it was at the time and sort of took it out and put it back in (now I feel stupid for doing that)
Also the clutch arm that moves the push rod came out, but I put it back exactly as I found it.

Could this have messed me up???
I have followed my manual in adjusting the clutch cable and the adjusting screw for the pushrod, but even though I feel the cable moving and engaging with the pushrod, the bike will not move in 1st if I hold the clutch lever in.

The bike was working perfectly before this :[
I swear I put everything in the way it was and my manual doesn't show or tell of any specific orientation for the arm/pushrod.

Any advice?
I thought I was finally able to ride it again!!! It's a constant work on the old truck and bike....

Thanks!

1980 KZ 440 LTD Model A

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25 Nov 2018 05:46 - 25 Nov 2018 05:48 #794193 by Patton
Would assure the ball bearing (#21 on the following diagram) isn't missing, as the bearing can fall out and get lost in the process of removing and replacing the pushrod.

Some of the service manuals are wrong or confusing about which way to turn the adjustment screw toward reducing slack in the pushrod mechanism. I would try turning the screw in the opposite direction to see what happens.







Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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Last edit: 25 Nov 2018 05:48 by Patton.

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26 Nov 2018 04:36 - 26 Nov 2018 04:37 #794219 by martin_csr
Patton has already mentioned this.
When doing the clutch release adjustment, in what direction are you turning the adj screw? Some manuals are incorrect about the direction.
I believe on the 440 you're supposed to turn it counter-clockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 turn & tighten the locknut.
Your bike should have the same adj screw as mine which is counter-clockwise first.



.....
Last edit: 26 Nov 2018 04:37 by martin_csr.

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26 Nov 2018 15:34 - 26 Nov 2018 15:37 #794232 by newkzrider18
Yes it is CCW then in 1/4 turn CW.

Currently no matter what adjustments I do the clutch cable is always loose. I am now having a hunch that it has to do with the cable arm because that is what I have really messed with. Feels like this means that the pushrod is not coming in contact with the arm assembly, but when I adjust the screw I do the CCW until hard then 1/4 turn in.

All I've done is clean up the clutch arm, and saw how it works on mine, and after putting it back in the clutch cable is always loose.
I posted some hand drawn diagrams of my clutch arm.

I'll try and explain what's going on in them.
'Clutch_Arm_Assembly':
(1) clutch arm in green -> this rotates when the clutch lever is pulled
(2) this 3 ball plate
(3) something that has the adjusting screw in the middle of it

'Clutch Arm close'
shows bottom view of (1) which is just carved in grooves for the holes in (2)

'Ball plate close'
shows top/bottom view of (2)

'piece name unknown'
shows top view of the piece that has the adjusting screw in it

'different positions of unknown piece'
I noticed when removing parts that this piece could either be screwed in all the way to be at the bottom of the top half of the adjusting screw or you could leave it halfway or 3/16, 4/5...whatever you want really. The manual didn't indicate where this should be when first starting from 'zero'

As usual, very grateful for the help. Thank you.

1980 KZ 440 LTD Model A
Last edit: 26 Nov 2018 15:37 by newkzrider18.

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27 Nov 2018 15:44 #794277 by newkzrider18
If anyone else is having this issue, I believed I figured it out.

First off, I took a long time to study my diagram (those pictures I posted) to understand how the clutch lever, cable, arm, pushrod, and plates work and how it looks when the clutch lever is squeezed vs not. Also I understood how the adjusting screw alters all the devices inside. This allowed me to answer questions I had already asked.


For the answer, well, honestly I feel stupid, but hey, you have to learn somewhere!
I realized that when I was adjusting, I didn't screw the bolts back in for the engine sprocket cover. This is basically the "wall" that allows the clutch arm to push back on the push rod; without the engine sprocket cover actually screwed in tight, there is no resistance, and therefore when you use the clutch lever, it will, instead of pushing against the push rod, push back on itself!!!! and push itself AWAY from the push rod.

Gosh dang, I really laughed at myself good haha.
Now I have to wait for the new bolts I ordered (that's why I didn't have it screwed all the way on in the first place)

I am confident that was the problem. Hope that helps anyone.

1980 KZ 440 LTD Model A

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29 Nov 2018 15:39 #794369 by Potato959
I actually have this issue but with the sprocket cover back on. Thank you all for the responses. Can't wait to take a look and see if this solves my issue!

1980 kz750ltd

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