New 550 Clutch Dampers

Turbosteve84 is now making 550 clutch dampers made of Viton. I used his 750 ones on my other bike and have been very impressed with the the fit/finish and how it drives. (no more clunk when decelerating)
I had a spare 550 clutch basket in my stockpile, so I drilled and pressed out the rivets, tapped the holes and bolted it together with ultra low head allen bolts and blue loctite.
Now I can put in my zr550 when I finally get it out of mothballs.

Old versus new


Dampers fitted and ready for reassembly



Finished product ready for use

Good to knowI . Ive got a few sets from him for the turbo . Guess if ever get the 550 out of the shed Ill have to do that one too .

this is grest news. bit late for me as ive just put a low mile zr550 basket in the bike.
but still interested in refurbing the old old one ive pulled apart.

Thanks for sharing. What tap did you use, and what is the information on the bolts/screws used?

I tapped the rivet holes for M6 and used M6x20 ultra low head bolts that only have a 1.5mm tall head. Any taller bolt head and there is a risk hitting the engine case as there is very little clearance on the back side of the clutch basket. The rivet hole is exactly 20mm deep, so the bolt is totally flush on the inside of the basket.

I could not find any suitable bolts locally and had to order them online.
us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/1103026035...cts&Keyword=CBSS6-20

That's good to know. Thanks

www.zephyr-zone.com/zz/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=271

Found more info with pricing on these dampers.

I’m going to replace the friction plates the next week. Is it a way to see if the dampers also need to be replaced when I have it open?

gordone wrote: I’m going to replace the friction plates the next week. Is it a way to see if the dampers also need to be replaced when I have it open?

Grab the outer basket and rotate it clock wise and counter clock wise. On my 750 there was a fair bit of movement so I replaced the dampers. It was not difficult nor expensive to perform the upgrade. It's a nice improvement in my opinion. My rebuild thread has additional photos and so does Skidmark's. There is also a tutorial available on the internet where screws are used instead of welding to button the hub back up after teardown. I personally think welding is easier which is why I went that way.

Nessism wrote:

gordone wrote: I’m going to replace the friction plates the next week. Is it a way to see if the dampers also need to be replaced when I have it open?

Grab the outer basket and rotate it clock wise and counter clock wise. On my 750 there was a fair bit of movement so I replaced the dampers. It was not difficult nor expensive to perform the upgrade. It's a nice improvement in my opinion. My rebuild thread has additional photos and so does Skidmark's. There is also a tutorial available on the internet where screws are used instead of welding to button the hub back up after teardown. I personally think welding is easier which is why I went that way.

Thank you, will looking into it !