Valves out of spec symptoms

Do the carbs have to be removed to remove the cam chain adjuster(cross wedge type)? I may get my brother to make up a manual adjuster for me. 

Troubled1 wrote: Do the carbs have to be removed to remove the cam chain adjuster(cross wedge type)? I may get my brother to make up a manual adjuster for me. 

No.  A hex socket on a med length extension reaches.

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  I ended up pulling the carbs as the gasket broke and part of it is stuck to the engine. I pulled the cams and checked the shims. Here’s what I came up with. Does it look right? I’ll be ordering parts Monday so let me know if I should make any changes. 

The valves at .07mm should move two sizes not three.

The valves at <.06 are going to need two or three steps each.  I'd plan to have shims on hand to handle either eventuality.

Oh, and be sure to position the cams per the method detailed in the manual.  That way the valves are adjusted in adjacent pairs.  A simple way to think about this is thus...

Point 1E cam lobe forward at the gasket surface and then measure 1E & 2E
Point 4E cam lobe forward...and measure 4E and 3E

Point 1I straight up at 90 degrees to the gasket surface and measure 1I & 2I
Point 4I straight up...and measure 4I and 3I

Thanks for the heads up on cam positioning. I did notice the error in my chart and have revised it. If I’m now correct, I should only need to order 2 shims, a 2.40 and a 2.70 as I will be able to reuse the other 2.

Very good day today. I switched the 2 shims and went to my Kawasaki dealer on the off chance they may have some 13mm shims. They looked in the back and came out with a Shim pack. They had the 2.45 and 2.70. Price?? $5.00 for the 2. I headed home installed and checked the clearances again, damn!! #4 cylinder intake was still just under .04mm. I headed back to the dealership looking for a 2.30 and a 2.35. He started looking in the tray and in the last compartment was some 2.30 shims. Another $2.50 and I was on my way. I installed the Shim, checked the clearance and got jut under .12mm. Perfect!! As all my other clearances fell between.12-.13mm

i double checked the valve timing, rechecked the torque on the caps and installed the cover. I installed the carbs loosely, connected the fuel line as I wanted to check the float height using the clear tube method. #2 carb was a little high so I pulled them off and reset it. 

I installed the cam chain adjuster (cross wedge) and everything went according to the manual. All that remains is to install the coils and fuel tank and give it a try. Depending on how it runs, I may pull the synchronizer out and check it as #4 intake was way too tight when synced a month ago. The only other thing I’ll check is the ignition advancer. 

Im interested to see if I’ll notice a difference in the way it runs.