KZ Engine Build

About to start my KZ engine build on my 77' KZ1000A. Have put this off for the last couple years due to personal issues prior, but now ready to start. Have met with a person ( Bill ) recommended from a Forum member and liked what had to say. Ordered my Wiseco 1075 kit. Going to use my 28mm pumpers I've acquired prior along with my Vance/Hines 4into1. Want this motor to be just a good street motor with great mid-range.

My stock head has broken fins around the #1 spark plug hole which leads me should I replace it or look for a good "J" Head ? Or is there much gain from the "J" head as compared to a good port and polished stock head. Engine builder says he has a good source who does good flow work.

And Camshaft recommendation ? Anything you Guys like that acts well in the mid=range performance area gain ?

For a "J" Head you need a cam chain tower mod (APE)
The "J" Head on my bike.




The APE parts you need or made your self like me :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:

kzzone.com/sprockets.html





Michael

Scirocco, Is there a "noticeable" performance gain with this "J" head or just stay with what I have? Since my stock head going to be rebuilt and flowed anyway, should I look for a good serviceable "J" head and are they fairly inexpensive ?

Also, does your motor have any Camshaft upgrade ?

The 'J' head has bigger 40cc combustion chambers and you will lose approx 2 points of compression (i.e. 10 to 1 will end up at 8 to 1 ) unless you compensate with pistons to suit.
You could skim it but you get very close to the valve seats and you still won't get the best out of it without going bigger on the carbs etc.
For what you are doing a stock ported head will be more than good enough and save a lot more expense and hassle. especially as you have already ordered the pistons.
Stock cams dialled in will give a strong motor and the only other stock kawasaki cams that are worth seeking out are those from the 83 GPZ unitrack.
After that something similar to the Andrews 2x or Yoshi stage 1 or 2 cams are what you want..
The Andrews cams are no longer made but Pitstop performance supply PSPx2 cams which are based on the Andrews specs.
I run a Wiseco 1075 Z1R as my everyday driver .
It has a ported head (Manzano) , 1mm os valves , stock dialled in cams , 28mm Z1R carbs, Dyna ignition and my own tuned length 4-1 exhaust, ( 40mm dia, 27 inch long headers with 60mm link pipe )
It is a very strong motor, will cruise all day and pull in top from nothing and has seen 160mph a few times with ease.
That sounds like the type of performance you require ?

Zed1015, I appreciate your Honesty. Comparing my stock cams on my motor with your Z1R, is there a difference in cam profiles ? Also, the way you describe your motor, is what I basically want for the street as well.

kzdcw wrote: Zed1015, I appreciate your Honesty. Comparing my stock cams on my motor with your Z1R, is there a difference in cam profiles ? .

No. All the kickstart engines from the Z1 to the MK2 use the same cam profile.
There is plenty of power to be had from a near stock (ish) engine.
It just needs a compression hike (Wiseco pistons ), head porting and a decent pipe.
Even changing out the points for a Dyna S ignition makes a noticable difference without any other changes and that mod should be the first thing you do if you want to make the most out of any other upgrades.

Zed1015, Dyna is on my list too. When you talk about "degreeing" the cams, what exactly are you describing ?

kzdcw wrote: Zed1015, Dyna is on my list too. When you talk about "degreeing" the cams, what exactly are you describing ?

Degreeing in the cams gets them timed exactly to factory specs or any other setting you want and definately needs to be done with after market performance cams.
Stock Z9/1000 cams should be 110 degree lobe centers but because of factory production machining tolerances or camchain wear etc they can be a degree or so out even from new.
Slotted cam sprockets allow the cam timing to be set accurately.
However if you are going through the engine with a new camchain , gaskets etc there is a better chance that your timing is close to spec without degreeing but every little helps.