TOPIC:

I will be rebuilding or replacing the starter clutch on my 82 KZ 750H. I have read the guide in the files section(very helpful) I plan on attempting this repair soon, but just trying to figure out exactly what all i will need to get the job done right.

1: what all tools are required for the job? not your everyday sockets and whatnot, but what specialty tool will help get the job done?

2: what all parts should be checked/replaced during this job (besides the SC rebuild kit)?

3: miscellaneous stuff: Bolts, Gaskets,silicone gasket maker, threadlocker etc..

I am really just trying to source everything i need and have it all ready before i crack her open. I have searched all over the web and have found a bunch of broken info/vids of different years with diff engines.

Thanks for any and all help

It might help if you go through the OEM parts fishe and make your own list and post it here, and then the folks can chime in if they can think of anything you are missing. This will save us a lot of time going over the fishe for you. Just off the top of my head I can think of a few unusual parts you may need like exhaust gaskets , secondary shaft cush damping rubbers, and maybe secondary shaft bearings. And be sure to use OEM parts, particularly for the starter clutch.

Thinking I would need to change out my starter clutch a few years ago (Turned out to be something else but that's another story) I researched parts and found KZ650 starter clutch would fit my kz750. Then earlier this year the following post from weeZe caught my attention
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/607684-kz...ion-zr7s-part#777530

He put a ZR7S starter clutch in his 650 so should work in a 750 and looks like Daftrusty did the same. The ZR7s starter clutch looks like a better design. Might be worth checking out or might give you more options

Replaced mine 4 years ago now and wish I would a known about the zr7s clutch then....... A few things I can think of is a OEM oil pan gasket, all o rings for that, a clutch cover gasket, new clutch hub nut, thrust and plain washers etc that go along with that, I needed a 32mmm socket for that but check to be sure in case the 750 is diff......... I also picked up a ebc clutch hub holder tool off ebay and a electric impact wrench from HF for the 32mm nut ( a big breaker bar might do it up to you). Need a 90-100lb TQ wrench to get that baby tight too..... I replaced the screen on the oil pump but you might get away without that. Will need a impact screw driver with a #3 bit for the screws that hold the bearing plate and oil pump on.

I replaced the sprocket (gear), needle bearing and hub that holds the rollers and springs after reading some didn't and had it fail a years or 2 later. Not easy to find but Z power and Cheap cycle parts along with ebay finally can through.

Some have changed it with the motor in the bike...... I pulled it when I did mine and was nice having it on the bench but was a lot of work....... search here and decide whats best for you on that. A few told me you can get by without the bearing puller and just gently tap the shaft and bearings out.... worked well for me and was easy (took very little effort and I'm sure it didn't hurt the bearings. Pick up some Blue loctite for the oil pump bolts and ST clutch bolts, stake the oil pump screws like shown...... wasn't too bad Clymer and factory manual spelled it out pretty good and mines holding up well.

Thanks! this info is really helpful!

KZB2 650 has nailed the important replacement bits and tools.
The impact screw driver for removing the oil pump and EBC clutch holding tool are MANDATORY!
It is impossible to remove the oil pump screws with just a regular screw driver and not destroy the heads.
I have read of people of to many people using homemade clutch holders and snapping parts of the clutch hub or basket off.

I was able to put my bike up on the center stand and was easily able to remove the starter clutch. It's not as easy as when the engine is out, but taking the engine out is 3X the work.

I used MAP gas and a 1/2" breaker bar with a length of pipe on it to get enough leverage to remove the clutch nut. Removing the nut when the engine is out makes it much much harder to do with a breaker bar. (using a heavy duty impact gun set to kill may be easier) I can't stress enough how tight that nut will be.

I just removed the nut off the secondary shaft and tapped the entire thing out with the drive gear still attached. When you do this the starter clutch and primary damper is going to want to fall out the bottom of the engine, so don't let it hit the floor.

Inspect the starter clutch main sprocket. The surface the clutch rollers grab onto can have scoring or chatter marks. Convention wisdom says the sprocket should be replaced along with new rollers as the old chatter marks will eventually cause the new rollers to slip and you will be taking the whole thing out all over again.
A new sprocket alone costs more than a used zr-7 sprag clutch, so that is I went that route.

If you use the zr-7 clutch, make sure you get the correct shims/ spacers with it. One is a different thickness than the kz750 spacer. Without it, or in the wrong order, the starter clutch will bind solid as soon as you tighten the secondary shaft nut. (don't ask me how I know that...)

Primary damper replacement rubbers are a great idea as well as new clutch friction plates. You are in there, so you might as well do it now.

Be careful when tightening the JIS screws that hold the oil pump in. If you don't have the correct JIS screwdriver bit, you will will strip the heads before you can torque them down enough.

Download the free pdf of the Haynes manual for the Zephyr zr550/750 (the zr750 motor internals are identical to the kz750) as it has pretty good instructions and pictures for replacing the starter clutch while the engine is in the frame.
www.manualedereparatie.info/manuale/Kawa...dereparatie.info.zip
The factory manual is great, but it will have you take several extra and somewhat unnecessary steps.

Those are the only helpful hints I can think of right now.


Good luck!

You all are awesome! I seem to have been able to source all parts/tools recommended besides the clutch hub nut and washers, have found some used ones on ebay but nothing new.... edit: think i found everything needed. bike bandit seems like a good source for parts.