Has anyone used these bits?

So it has finally started to warm up sufficiently for me to get back working on the bike. '78 KZ1000B2 LTD with 32000 miles. I need to replace the clutch cover gasket,and intend to remove the clutch plates and clean/replace as needed. I've been using primarily Z1Enterprises as a parts supplier, and they offer these two upgrades in their catalog (although currently "out of stock"). One is for a modified clutch pusher, with a needle bearing to support the plate, which reduces friction I assume, and the other is a "EZ-pull" type clutch release, replacing (in my opinion) the rather hinckey clutch release that is standard.

Has anyone used either of these? Are they worth the 'entrance fee'?

www.z1enterprises.com/roller-clutch-push-rod-kit.html

www.z1enterprises.com/easy-clutch-kit-z1-kz900-1000.html

This second looks a lot like Honda release mechanisms I have seen.

I'll be pulling the friction plates and measuring them and the steel plates for wear, and will bead blast the metal ones before reassembly.

Appreciate any input, good or bad. Here's to warmer weather!

Since you asked

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Push rod roller bearing kit -definitely worth $20.

EZ-Pull conversion? Does reduce lever pull a bit, but not $123 worth to me. If yours is jacked up, or you really need to reduce lever pull to ride, then I'd say yes.

ymmv

Thanks Tex. About what I was thinking. I have not actually been able to ride this thing yet, as I've been doing a "refresh" over the winter. Had some trouble with the carbs plus a few other things. I think I will probably take it all apart to do the cleaning, measure up the springs and plates, determine what what needs replacing, and then maybe order the pusher also, as I am right there anyway.

After I ride it some if the pull is just awful I can go from there.

Appreciate the confirmation!

I have the pusher needle bearing in my bike and it works great. ( APE part )
Really needed only with HD clutch springs and racing but wont hurt at all on any KZ .
Keeps the pushrod / Ball bearing / and pusher from getting to hot and welding it self together when pushed to the limit
Dave

The needle bearing clutch pusher is a must in the Z1/KZ1000 clutch. The only other weak link in the clutch set up is the early model clutch release assembly. That white plastic release that came in the '73 to '78 models is a joke. Replace it with the ball bearing clutch release assembly from the '79 to '81 model bikes (part # 13231-020) With those two parts and a well lubed and properly routed O.E.M. clutch cable that clutch is damn near bulletproof!!!!!! You would not believe all the clutch cables I have seen on KZ's that are resting right on the exhaust header in my days. Most aftermarket clutch cables are pure junk. Pay the big bucks and buy the REAL Kawasaki clutch cable.

I would NEVER bead blast the steel plates in stock or mildly modified motors. I always installed some heavy duty clutch springs, and always used nothing but O.E.M. clutch plates. Again all the aftermarket plates out there don't come close to the quality of the O.E.M. Kawasaki clutch plates.

One more thing with any clutch on all bikes, keep the time you have it disengaged to the bare minimum. You don't sit through a stop light holding the clutch lever in!!!! Light starts to turn green, pull the clutch lever in then.

This is the best clutch release Kawasaki ever made for the KZ's end of question!!!


This is the clutch pusher you want to get.

Thanks for the input.

My bike does have the release mechanism you pictured. Have worked on bikes with plastic worm drive releases and they always seem to be an 'Achilles heel' . I was a bit put off by all the little balls when I first saw it, so just washed the thing well in my tank and lubed up real good. Should I even attempt to disassemble an d clean?

Completely agree with OEM being the way to go for most bits. Sometimes i have had to go aftermarket when I just cannot source them though.

Curious about not bead blasting the steel plates though. Contamination fears? My intent was to rough up the steel plates (only) after inspection, as the bike has sat still for 12-15 years. Replace the friction plates/springs if they were out of tolerance.

Thanks for the input, appreciate it!

Yea, you don't want to take the late model clutch release apart if you don't have to. There will be little steel balls bouncing all over your work bench!!!! I do the same wash it in the Safety-Kleen and just force some grease down into it.

If the steel plates have blue or like burn marks on them, or if they are warped I would replace them. Never found the need to bead blast steel plates in any of my motors. The stock clutch plates some heavy duty springs, and the fancy clutch pusher, and that clutch is damn near bulletproof!!!!

The only recurring problem I have ever seen in the clutch was the very back fiber plate would crack, or break into a few pieces. But that was in bikes where they did holeshots all the time.