Engine rebuild- where to use thread locker

Made some progress on my 81 KZ440 engine rebuild and and have a question about when and where to use thread locker. Looking under the right engine cover (clutch side), the service manual only specifies putting thread locker/loctite on the shifter stop (red arrows). The rest of the screws in there are also Philips heads, but don't have a torque call out or specify using Loctite. Is there any reason not to use a medium strength, high temp thread locker on the rest of the screws? If not, should they be oiled?

The manual has general torque ranges for each thread pitch- regardless of whether I use loctite or not I was going to try to hit the recommended torque for these M6 fasteners.

Thanks!

In my opinion never use thread locker. I hate that damn crap. Tighten a bolt correctly and it will never work loose.

First mistake - Your Kawasaki does not have ANY Philips head screws! Those cross head screws are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) and you will wreck the screw heads if you use regular Philips screwdrivers on them. See the links below for details.

Second - do NOT use thread locker on any fasteners unless the manual says you must. To do otherwise is a big mistake. Ed

www.kzrider.com/forum/10-new-members/606715-new-here#768867

www.kzrider.com/forum/10-new-members/606715-new-here#768868

Thanks! I realized pretty quick that they're not Philips- but thanks for calling that out.

Is it common then to oil the screws before threading them in?

NO - you do NOT lubricate the fasteners.

If you have not done so I would urge you to buy and carefully read the Kawasaki Service Manual for your specific bike before proceeding any further. The folks who wrote the manual did so with a sound understanding of the bikes, so it is best to adhere to their instructions.

When installing fasteners you should use an appropriate torque wrench and follow the instructions for the correct torque level in the manual. Also, you should follow the other instructions in the manual such as the ones shown below:

You can use something like shown below. It's not hard to break loose if you need to and it will provide some extra retaining strength in case of vibration. Generally speaking though, following the instructions from the factory Kawasaki manual is a good guideline. No real need to overthink.

Oh, and no disrespect to Ed but I always use my standard phillips #2 & #3 bits on an impact driver when removing screws like the ones in question and I've never damaged one. I don't use the impact to reinstall the screws though. I use a proper JIS screwdriver and tighten them as tight as I can by hand.

RonKZ650 wrote: In my opinion never use thread locker. I hate that damn crap. Tighten a bolt correctly and it will never work loose.

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/607033-en...reply/771855?quote=1
Tell that to the hardly riders!

Nessism wrote: Oh, and no disrespect to Ed but I always use my standard phillips #2 & #3 bits on an impact driver when removing screws like the ones in question and I've never damaged one. I don't use the impact to reinstall the screws though. I use a proper JIS screwdriver and tighten them as tight as I can by hand.

No offense taken. You might have Philips bits that are not made to exact Philips standards or possibly that have a bit of wear on the tip; I know such bits do exist. The problem with Philips bits is the point that extends from the tip. It prevents the bit from fully seating in the screw head and that prevents the flukes of the bit from fully contacting the screw slots. Below is a pic showing the dimensions of Phillips and JIS bits; it shows can see the tip on the Philips bit. If that tip is filed off the bit will fit ok. The second picture below shows a Philips bit that I modified by filing off that tip. It fits the JIS screws perfectly. Ed

I never found a JIS driver for the engine screws worth a crap. JIS for screws like used on the handlebar controls I do have. For sure use a #3 driver on engine srews, not a #2.

RonKZ650 wrote: I never found a JIS driver for the engine screws worth a crap. JIS for screws like used on the handlebar controls I do have. For sure use a #3 driver on engine srews, not a #2.

Yes, the #2 bits are too small for engine cases; #3 is the right size. The genuine JIS bits I have are pretty good , but the one I made from a #3 Philips fits the screws even better than the genuine bits and is the one I use. I used an old sharpening stone to carefully grind it down to the correct shape. It fits well enough to stay in the screw if I let go of it as shown in the photo above. The genuine JIS bit won't do that. Ed