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New cable, no clutch 17 Jul 2017 21:07 #767223

  • gixxerkidd03
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I caught my clutch cable on the two strands of cables. I purchased a new cable and installed it but I can feel it not pushing on the push rod, almost like it's stuck in??. I didn't have issues prior to this. I'm not getting any spring on my lever besides what I feel from the small return spring... any suggestions?
1981 KZ750e

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New cable, no clutch 17 Jul 2017 21:19 #767224

  • TexasKZ
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Did you adjust the cable exactly as the factory service manual describes?
First at the release mechanism
Next the mid-cable adjuster
Finally, the clutch lever
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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New cable, no clutch 18 Jul 2017 05:02 #767230

  • Patton
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Some service manuals are wrong about which way to first turn the pushrod adjuster screw when initially closing the gap between it and the pushrod before next turning the opposite direction to afford the needed slight gap between it and the pushrod.

If not already done, could try readjusting the pushrod by first turning the pushrod adjuster screw in the opposite direction to that specified in the manual.

The earlier models such as Z1 and KZ900 first turned the screw clockwise to initially close the gap. Which to me seems intuitively correct. Called the screw type adjuster.

Later models adopted the ball and ramp type adjuster on which the screw is first turned counter-clockwise to initially close the gap, next turning clockwise to afford the needed slight gap. Which is correct, but to me seems intuitively weird.



Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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New cable, no clutch 18 Jul 2017 20:30 #767290

  • RonKZ650
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This same basic question comes up from time to time. Before turning all the adjustments 13 turns, and back ect, look back at what you did completely. There is no need to dive into the adjustment on the engine ever for a cable replacement. If cable was working before it will work the exact same way with a new cable by simply adjusting the new cable. If new cable cannot be adjusted to work, you did something wrong. Being as simple as it is, can't say what, but don't jump in and turn 34 turns til tight and back off 1/2 turn or whatever on the engine or you'll get it all fricked up double what it is.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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New cable, no clutch 19 Jul 2017 06:59 #767301

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+1 Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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New cable, no clutch 19 Jul 2017 11:35 #767308

  • Nessism
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The little arm that the clutch cable attaches too (inside the clutch cover) rides on a ball and ramp device. The ramp constitutes about 1/3 of a revolution before the ball jumps completely over the ramp and down to the bottom of the next. Sometimes when people install a new cable they don't realize that they need to reset the arm/ramp device to the proper position or the device won't push the cable properly.

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New cable, no clutch 24 Jul 2017 10:44 #767614

  • gixxerkidd03
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Thanks for the info guys. I have some issuses. I now and a smooth pull on the cable after some cable lube. I followed the manual and it say to leave all the play in the cable and start at the engine. Turn adjuster until it starts to tighten and a half turn more?? I think it means to back off a half turn. The move to the center on the cable the to then lever. The clutch now catches late and slips under load. I'm going to start over and back the push rid adjuster off a bit. I like when I have a shorter throw on the lever. Any advice where how to adjust it to engage sooner?
1981 KZ750e

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Last edit: by gixxerkidd03.

New cable, no clutch 24 Jul 2017 20:16 #767650

  • RonKZ650
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Did you more or less kind of take note how far you turned the adjustment at the engine so you can return it back where it was? I learned over the years to always note any and all adjustments. If you can return the engine adjust mech more or less where it was, and adjust slack in the cable adjusters, the clutch will be back 100% just like it was, assuming it was working correctly before the cable replacement. I know a lot of guys dissagree, but look at it from logic. You replaced a cable that does a certain function, it simply mechanically mates to items that disenguage the clutch via a push rod. How in this green earth can the engine need adjustment different for a new cable? It can't. Guys that think so can continue that train of thought, but it makes zero sense. Sure the engine adjuster can come into play when the clutch plates start to wear ect, but for a cable just replace and adjust cable. If that does not work, then some install mechanical problems. More guys have messed up the clutch beyond help by fooling with the engine adjust over the years by following the manual which is all goofed up most the time.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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