PMC clutch actuator instructions?

I'm putting my 1977 KZ1000A back together today, just got done installing an APE Trac King clutch and a needle bearing pusher. I've moved on to installing a PMC easy clutch release. The instruction sheet it came with is in Japanese, and the pictures aren't very good, not to mention that the cover doesn't even resemble the one on my bike. So anyways, I'm not too sure that the orientation of all the parts is correct, because I can't seem to get it to function. Does anyone know of a write up on this anywhere? I've been so far unable to find anything!

Hmm... think I got it figured out. Took way too damn long though!

madmatt1 wrote: I I've moved on to installing a PMC easy clutch release.

Would you mind posting some pictures if you have them? Also, once you get it back together I'd like to know what you think.

I don't really mind the stock clutch feel, but I've seen those listed on Ebay and I'm curious to know how well they work.

This hasn't gone well so far, I installed it after putting in an APE clutch, and couldn't get it to adjust properly in order to get it to release. The actuator kept overextending and popping out. I fiddled around with it for way too long and finally just cleaned and greased the original actuator and tried that, but it turns out a couple of the clutch plates stuck and they got pretty burned up. SO now I am waiting for OEM fibers and steels to come in, and doing it all over again. But I'll get you some pictures, I'll also give the PMC release another try at that time!

I don't know that the PMC actuator is really going to be a substantial improvement over a properly cleaned and grease worm-screw type, they didn't feel much different really.. I also am a Kawasaki parts salesman, and I have discovered that you could buy the OEM Kawasaki GPZ1100 setup way cheaper than the PMC, it is all still available to order, surprisingly!

I also just got done installing the kit on my 78 KZ1000A4 and didn't have any issues. My original actuator and clutch cable were both in good shape but even with a stock set of clutch plates and springs it was a real bear to pull in the clutch. Sorry, I was in a time crunch and didn't take any pictures.

I didn't really feel like I needed the instructions that much beyond referring to the pictures a few times to make sure I had the orientations correct. Step 1 is to install the oil seal on new outer housing. I oiled it before doing this with a light touch on an arbor press just to try and keep things square. It popped right on with no problem. The next step was to install the adjuster screw onto what I'll call the "seat", which is a machined and plated steel component which gets installed in the inside of the outer housing. It's got an anti-rotation notch in it so it can only be installed in one way into the housing. The "ramps" that the ball bearings ride in must face the direction of the balls, of course. I added grease to all surfaces of the screw/seat assembly before inserting it into the housing. Next, I greased and installed the ball/retainer assembly and inserted it into the outer housing. This is also notched and can only be installed in one orientation (it's symmetric so it doesn't matter which face is "up" in the housing bore). Next comes the actuator arm assembly, which I greased and inserted into the outer housing. At this point I referred to the picture just to make sure I got the orientation correct (there are three possibilities since there are three ball bearings). The completed assembly is thicker than the stock setup which is why a replacement pushrod (shorter than stock) is included in the kit. Removed the original one, lubricated the new one with oil and inserted into the engine. The shaft doesn't appear to be hardened at all and both ends are flat so it' doesn't matter which end goes in the engine. The whole assembly then gets installed onto the clutch cover just as the stock one would. From there on out everything is the same as stock.

The only thing I had an issue with was the locknut that came with the kit. It was a bit of a hassle to get it adjusted and then locked down without screwing up the adjustment. I may replace that but with a plain jam nut in the future.

I'd say it reduced the clutch force by about 30-40%. Your mileage may vary, hope that helped.

Thanks for your reply! Yes, after a short while the lack of concise instructions frustration wears off and it becomes pretty apparent which direction all the parts have to go. I'm glad to hear it made a good improvement on your bike. I also quickly realized I didn't care for that lock nut that you speak of either, the old ones just have a jam nut, I don't see why that wouldn't be sufficient. My favorite way to tighten any of them and not mess up the adjustment is to use a pass-through ratchet so you can put a screwdriver through it to hold the screw steady while you tighten!

I am searching a long time for this tool.
Sadly no longer available.

www.carbtune.com/carbtool.html

sure it is! Motion Pro makes them. I just bought one a couple weeks ago after realizing I left mine back in Wisconsin.
www.motionpro.com/product/08-0022

Is that the right size socket for the clutch jam nut? I'm assuming that it's not just a 1/4" drive for a variety of sizes...

No, it's way too small. That drive is 7 or 8 mm whereas it needs to be a 13. I bought this set at a Sears store cheap, for changing spark plugs on my Chevy van that has super tight plugs due to headers :laugh: Comes in handy all the time!