1980 KZ440 clutch cable slack?

I broke my side cover that the clutch cable goes it, and replaced it. When I replaced it, I put my old clutch cable back in. I did this because when I took it out, that cable was working, and gave a nice spring back. Now, I can't get it adjusted to do that. I have all my extensions damn near maxed out (to the mounts that I really wouldn't feel safe when the adjusters are holding on by like 2 threads.) I have seen other people having similar problems, but the response seem to be for people who replaced the cable or the bike has been sitting a long time since it worked. My issue is that it is the same cable that was working prior to a straight swap out and back in.

Does routing have much of an effect? I am pretty sure it is where I got it from, and worst case scenario, what can I do? People were saying about shorting the length of the cable, but that seems like a safety issue, like adjusting something because there is another issue.

With that pushrod that is acted on by the clutch action, is there any chance that, by that sliding out, or someone pulling it out a couple inches, that that could affect it by messing anything up inside?

Perhaps the little ball bearing went awol.

See part 21 in the diagram via the following link:

Click here > www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/142988/1980/KZ440-B1

Good Fortune!

Had you ever adjusted the clutch release mechanism & cable before? and does the owner's manual say specifically which direction to turn the clutch release adjusting screws? On some models you're supposed to turn it counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise a 1/4 or 1/2 turn. My 650-csr om specifically says counterclockwise first & then 1/4 clockwise. I think most 440s are the same. not sure about the 1980 440, though.

But if the ball bearing happens to be missing, there's no hope of disengaging the clutch, and adjustment efforts will be futile. :pinch:

Good Fortune!

Some manuals are ambiguous & don't specify the direction to turn the adjusting screw.
On some models it's clockwise first. on others it's counterclockwise first.

And if the adjustment function seems to fail, it's okay to try again by reversing the rotation directions.

As I recall, there is at least one FSM that provides incorrect instructions.

The idea is to first close the gap between the push rod and adjuster screw.
And then add a slight gap to assure full engagement in normal running position.





Good Fortune!

Ok, I have followed everyone of these clutch issues from other threads.

In order to check for the ball bearing, you have to open the side with the clutch plates, correct?

I have not touched that side mainly because I didn't want to mess with the clutch plates with so few miles on it.

Is that where I need to check for that ball bearing?

Thanks.

Patton:
When I took the transmission side cover off to ensure I had the ball bearing, I noticed my plates were stuck together. I oiled them up, and they were good. plenty of pad left. I did see there was a lot of gunk on the rod that is on the left side. And somehow, while adjusting, the adjusted wound up off the bolt... oh, and the clutch plate cover was finger tight. I think there was a nice mix that caused the issue because now I am good, nice strong pull on the clutch, nice motion while depressing the clutch lever. Smooth movement as the cover is pushed away, and the clutch is engaged. I am so ridiculously happy at this point. My bike is finally just shy of being on the road. This is a good day.