Stalls out at resting position

Hi riders!

I took my bike out now from the shed and got it the once over. Paid to have a few things fixed and was back on the road. I'm a little sad because the bike is now stalling out at low idle. If i put the choke on slightly, just to get the RPMs to stay at 1k to 1.2k i'm good and the bike runs fine. my question is... is it worth it taking to the shop to have the spark plugs checked or even worse the carbs checked or is it just better to run with a slight choke to keep it from stalling out? I am between spending more money on my 37 year hold kz 750 or hoping that a little choke won't destroy something in the long run. What would you do?

appreciate the feedback. hope you gals and guys who've had a rough winter are able to start riding soon!

I'm a little confused. Is the problem that the bike won't idle at 1000 - 1200 rpm simply by adjusting the idle control knob? Ed

I would fix it. As 650Ed suggests, it may be as simple as adjusting the idle screw. It could also be a case of mis-adjusted mixture screws. What work has been done?

The issue is that when the choke is completely off the bike idles at 800 which is good (and was like that in the past) but now it makes a metal tumbling sound and slowly stalls out. In order to prevent it I've been putting the choke on just enough to keep it at 1k to prevent the stall out from happening. I'm wondering if this is bad for the bike to ride with the choke slightly on. Or is it worth it bringing to a shop to fix.

In the past to fix the same problem he changed the spark plugs and wires and everything was good for the whole season. This year I told him to check out the weird noise coming from the engine and he said he will adjust the things you said. Which seems to have caused the problem. I'll just go back to him and let him know what's up. I just don't feel like putting 400 dollars into rebuilding carbs right now haha

Why don't you adjust the idle adjust knob once the motor is warm and set the rpm's to 1k rather than 800, thus eliminating the need for the choke.

Check your owners manual or fsm. I think 800 rpm is much too low. I don't think I've owned a bike that was not happiest with an idle in the 1000-1100 range. I recommend giving hat a try before going back to the shop.

TakeItKZ750LTD wrote: The issue is that when the choke is completely off the bike idles at 800 which is good (and was like that in the past) but now it makes a metal tumbling sound and slowly stalls out. In order to prevent it I've been putting the choke on just enough to keep it at 1k to prevent the stall out from happening. I'm wondering if this is bad for the bike to ride with the choke slightly on. Or is it worth it bringing to a shop to fix.

800 rpm is NOT good! Your motorcycle is not like a car, it needs to idle higher or it may end up with a damaged engine due to a lack of oil pressure. You really need to follow the instructions in the Kawasaki Service Manual and perform a full tune-up on the engine if that has not been done recently. Included would be setting the idle at the correct level which is 1,000 - 1,100 rpm (as shown on Page 15 of the manual). Ed

See:

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

And the full tune-up should also include assuring correct valve clearances, and adjusting the cam chain tension, together with carb pilot circuit cleaning, and lastly carb sync and pilot mixture screw adjustments.

Measuring the valve clearances is relatively simple and easy. If adjustment is necessary, first timers may need some assistance with removing/loosening and reinstalling the camshafts, which if done improperly can cause damage.

Here's an example of cleaning the pilot circuit on a CV carburetor:



Although carb pilot circuits have various designs, a primary cleaning objective is to have cleaner spray exit through the orifices into the carb bore.

After cleaning, always fit an aftermarket in-line fuel filter so that gasoline never enters the carb without first passing through the in-line filter.

Good Fortune!