Oil leaking from behind the sprocket

Last week I pulled the engine to do some work and was unable to get the bolt off the sprocket with a breaker bar. The FSM recommends using a Engine Sprocket and Flywheel holder(which I don't have). Instead, I had a buddy sit on it in gear while I tugged on it. It did not budge. I ended up leaving the chain on. After putting it all back together, a steady oil leak emerged from behind the engine sprocket. I haven't bent the washer back in place yet, but would assume that wouldn't effect the oil leak, Also. I attempted to tighten it with the breaker bar but it didn't seem to move at all.

I have access to an impact wrench. Is this just a matter of using it to tighten the sprocket? Attached below is a video I recorded of it.

Edit: So there is this thread. www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/460573-ou...-seal-leaking#460579
This seems to be my my solution.

FL IcedTea wrote: Last week I pulled the engine to do some work and was unable to get the bolt off the sprocket with a breaker bar. The FSM recommends using a Engine Sprocket and Flywheel holder(which I don't have). Instead, I had a buddy sit on it in gear while I tugged on it. It did not budge.

By having the bike in gear, you placed all the load/stress from the breaker bar on the transmission. IOW you were basically trying to turn the engine by rotating the output shaft. I suspect that you and the breaker bar put a side load on the output shaft and disturbed the seal.

I believe the other generally accepted way to remove that stubborn bolt is to have the rear brake applied firmly while you use the breaker bar. That way the chain and sprockets are taking the stress (because of the brakes) instead of the engine taking the stress because it doesn't want to turn over that way. Of course that's not really an option if the engine is out of the frame, but something to think about for next time.

Maybe if you had a Darth Maul style breaker bar you could keep the force* rotational rather than lateral, even on the workbench, by pushing with one arm and pulling with the other but you would probably give up a certain amount of leverage to do so.


* no pun intended

The way I do it is to leave the chain on the countershaft sprocket and slip an old screwdriver in between the links of the chain, ... from top to bottom, on the right side of the sprocket so it binds up and cannot rotate.
Or you can use a long 1/4" bolt and nut, and insert from top to bottom chain runs iinstead of an old screwdriver.

An impact wrench will make life so much easier and they don't cost much if you buy used. I bought a really nice one for $40. It's a huge time saver. No more struggling with sprocket and clutch nuts.

A new seal should do the job, don't think you bent the shaft.

Use the Impact wrench to remove the sprocket and replace the seal. That seal is not dependent upon torque to seal so additional tightening will not stop the leak. You only have to remove the trans cover to replace the seal.

Got the new seal in the mail today, Before I replace it do I need to drain the oil?

EDIT: Yes

Some will tell you can lay the bike over on its side, and they're not wrong. That's more for emergency road side repairs IMO. I would drain the oil. Did you get a new gasket for the trans cover as well?

MDZ1rider wrote: Some will tell you can lay the bike over on its side, and they're not wrong. That's more for emergency road side repairs IMO. I would drain the oil. Did you get a new gasket for the trans cover as well?

No, unfortunately I did not, But luckily, I live within driving distance of the z1enterprise warehouse so hopefully I can just drop in and pick one up.