Snapped stator screw

Being down inside the cover makes it hard to get at
So far I've tried:
Heating with propane torch then PBBlaster.
Slotting with a dremal and a impact driver
And of course a few sets of vice grips all to no avail
Thought about doing
Left handed drill in my drill press.Don't think it will fit in the vice and I'm horrible doing it with a hand drill
Having something welded on.
I have an exposed stub,it really shouldn't be this hard.Other suggestions?

If mine I would soak it with Kroil for 3 days and then try vice grips on it again. Ed

650ed wrote: If mine I would soak it with Kroil for 3 days and then try vice grips on it again. Ed

That might work to,will probably leave ti for a bit anyway.Never seen Kriol where I live(Vancouver Island ,BC,Canada) but II've found my good Canadian Lloyd's Movit.

You may want to contact the maker ( www.kanolabs.com ); that's where I bought mine. I use the stuff shown below. Ed

An experienced welder could drop an oversized nut over top of the exposed stud and weld the two together. Very important.........once it is completely cooled the weldment then could be backed out. While hot the threads will expand into the aluminum and would likely strip if it is removed.
I have used this process many times over the years and it will work .

Good luck!

Bill

GKBO wrote:

650ed wrote: If mine I would soak it with Kroil for 3 days and then try vice grips on it again. Ed

That might work to,will probably leave ti for a bit anyway.Never seen Kriol where I live(Vancouver Island ,BC,Canada) but II've found my good Canadian Lloyd's Movit.

Hi GKBO,

We swear by MMF, aka Magical Mystery Fluid. Half & half acetone and ATF. Let it soak for a long time, and renew it every so often as the acetone evaporates quickly.

"Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."
Machinists's Workshop Magazine

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

No way is Liquid Wrench 20% the cost of Kroil! Where did they get that info, and is their other info true or false?? Kroil actually costs a little bit LESS than Liquid Wrench, and Kroil works better. An 8 oz. can of Kroil costs $9.50; that equals $0.84 per ounce. A 5.5 oz. can of Liquid Wrench costs $6.28; that equals $0.87 per ounce. Ed

KROIL
websecure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order.shtml


LIQUID WRENCH
www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L106-Penetrating-Oil/dp/B00200MR8Q

Article is from 2007 IIRC. Prices have likely changed since then.

MMF has worked for us where others haven't. YMMV.


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

There's an alternative home brew a member of BC Classics turned me on to.Instead of acetone it's an alcohol/ATF mixture.Used that and heat to get the VERY stubborn swing arm pivot out.At this point I'm going to do a few more days of penetrating oil .If that fails it's on to having a bolt MIG welded to the stub.If that fails it will be ground flat then drilled and helicoiled if necessary.

You've tried all the normal steps I would have used so far. Next step for me would be to grind it flat, center punch and then drill with progressively larger bits for an EZ out. However, this would all be after repeated soakings with penetrating oil of your choice and heat cycles.
One trick I've been using lately is the normal heat, but then spraying the bolt itself with computer keyboard dusting aerosol spray. The stuff is ice cold and the spray tube allows you to pin point the application. My theory is the heat expands the surrounding threads while the cold contracts the stuck bolt. You try so many things with a frozen bolt that its hard to say what really worked. It could be a culmination of all the things you did prior that actually broke it loose.
I'm an MMF user as well, but partly because I'm cheap and already had ATF and Acetone. It sounds like your home brew is very similar. As mentioned, the acetone evaporates quickly. Store it in a sealed container. I use a 98 cent condiment squeeze bottle with a cap I picked up at Wal-mart

When we had to deal with a bolt broken off 5mm. deep in a case boss, we soaked it in MMF for a month, and shocked it by tapping it with a hammer and pin punch periodically. Heated the boss from within for 20 min. or so, and the remainder of the bolt came out remarkably easily via easy out. It was about 10 mm. long.


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

The LH drill bit business works well. Most drill presses don't spin backwards though so that means you need to use a hand drill. The key to drilling busted screws is to grind the head of the screw and center punch the nub, then start off with a small pilot hole in the center of the old screw. First pilot hole will invariably be off center so you need to work the bit around in the nub to center the hole. Only move to the next sized bit when you get the hole centered to the best of your ability. Slowly step up the size of the bits, keeping the hole centered, and by the time you get up near the full hole size the nub will typically spin out.

BTW, I would not use this technique as long as there is a nub sticking out though. Get someone to weld on a nut like mentioned here by others. The drilling business is a last resort.