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KZ400 removing clutch cover/shifter return spring
- de Courcy
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Took it to a dealer and they said it was probably the return spring, apparently they had almost an identical bike with the same problem a few weeks ago.
I'm having trouble getting the clutch plate off, the manual is a bit unclear, also i am new to motorcycles. Looks like the timing assembly needs to come off too, but the nut turns with the crankshaft and even with the bike in gear I can't get it off. How do I remove this nut? Or do i need to disassemble the timing advancer completely?
I'd just like to take the plate off to see if it is the return or the pawl spring, but I am scratching my head on how to get it off.
Hope someone can help, and thanks in advance!
William
1978 KZ400
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- de Courcy
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There is a great video, but no info on the crankshaft nut.
1978 KZ400
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- TexasKZ
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Have you tried properly adjusting the clutch cable? There is a specific procedure.
Do you have a factory service manual? You really should have one before you start disassembling things. A Clymer manual is better than nothing, but the factory manual is more specific.
Have you checked the oil level? Do you know if it is the correct oil? It needs to meet JASO MA specifications.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- diggerdanh
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There are two pieces at the end of the crankshaft - a larger 17mm nut that you can use to rotate the engine and a smaller bolt (14mm IIRC) that holds the 17mm nut on. Loosen the 14mm bolt and the whole assembly will come off and then you can remove the timing plate, etc. You may need to hold the 17mm nut with one wrench while turning the 14mm bolt with another (or a socket).
Ha. It's been awhile but now I remember that I ran into this issue with my first KZ400 where the bolt was in really tight. The issue is that the flat of the 17mm nut is not very wide so it is difficult to get a wrench on it and another wrench on the head of the 14mm bolt and not enough clearance to use a socket on the 14mm bolt. This is where a thin 17mm wrench or a thin-walled socket would be a blessing. I ended up getting lucky by finding a crescent wrench that was thin enough to use to hold the 17mm nut so I could get another wrench solidly on the bolt.
Best of luck to you.
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- Patton
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de Courcy wrote: Hello! I just bought a 1978 KZ400 yesterday, my first motorcycle (only has 11,000k!!) :laugh: and rode it for about 5 or 6 hours. Today it wouldn't shift properly, seemed like something happened overnight, literally....
Perhaps nothing's wrong.
The transmission is designed to NOT shift above neutral unless the rear wheel is rolling forward at sufficient speed.
The rear wheel can usually be rotated fast enough by hand with the bike on its centerstand in order to allow an upshift from neutral.
Actually means the countershaft must be rotating counterclockwise at sufficient speed to dislodge by centrifugal force the ball bearings that otherwise prevent the shift upward beyond neutral.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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A KZ440 Factory Shop Manual (FSM) may be downloaded for free at www.kz400.com
Go to www.kz400.com
On the left-hand side of the page, scroll down to and click on Manual
On the right-hand side, scroll down to where you see
KZ440 Workshop Manual
A workshop manual for the following 440 models can be downloaded from here or here.
Click on the 2nd "here" (the 1st "here" produces an error message).
Takes a few moments to download the FSM.
The above paragraph is from page 179.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- de Courcy
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I have a factory manual, It has the correct oil and the right amount,
The problem is the shift lever does not reset back to centre, and there is too much play with the assembly, the lever is just too loose, and yes it is attached tight to the shift shaft.
1978 KZ400
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- de Courcy
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If I do, which I very well may have to, does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove those screws without completely stripping them? They are really torqued on. WD-40? Liquid Wrench?
William
1978 KZ400
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- martin_csr
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As for the screws, Kroil is best, but I use Liquid Wrench penetrating spray lubricant. regular wd40 isn't really a penetrant.
I would let the penetrant sit overnight & use a dremel to cut slots in the screw heads.
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- JR
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I'm not familiar with the KZ400. Is it necessary to remove the timing plate to do the shifter repair?
It looks like it is necessary.
From page 76 of the workshop manual on the kz400 site www.kz400.com/Workshop%20manual%20bilder....maual%20p.71-81.pdf
It appears that while the shift lever is on the left the mechanism and spring are on the right behind the clutch basket and a lot of stuff needs to be removed before one can get at the spring.
There are a few members here with 400s and one may come along with good suggestions while that oenetrating oil is doing its work.
Most of those screws being JIS have been inadvertantly stripped by previous owners in the past
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- Nerdy
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JR wrote: Most of those screws being JIS have been inadvertantly stripped by previous owners in the past
Two words: Impact. Driver.
1967 Yamaha YCS1 Bonanza
1980 KZ440B
1981 Yamaha XT250H
1981 KZ440 LTD project bike
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- de Courcy
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The shifter return spring is broken now just gotta find another one..... Probably replace the pawl spring while i'm in there.
Thank you everyone!
1978 KZ400
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