Bad valve seats?

Hey guys, so a little work was done this week after labor day shenanigans were finished. I took off the carbs and after researching for a couple hours I finally found Bikecliff's site and performed a bench sync. The each carb slide was adjusted evenly with the #3 (lead) carb and the mixture screws all set to 1-1/2 turns from lightly seated. While doing this I checked and the main jet size I put in is 107.5. As far as I know the old jets were 105, and the air box was converted to pods so I think this increase is..ok?
I hooked everything back up and tested it out. It slightly sounds better but it's running too rich still and the 4th cyl as well still doesn't affect idle is covered. I'm going to try to get it running around 1200 rpm and see if I can research how to get the vacuum straightened out.

2 videos for audio of what it's running like

Other one of carbs being blocked

You aren't really trying to use a single automotive style un-damped vacuum gauge, are you? That won't do.

You will need a proper set of 4 motorcycle vacuum gauges or mercury tube carb sticks to synchronize your carbs. It really can't be done without the proper equipment. The carbs are either way off adjustments (including synch.) or you are missing a spark plug or two - seriously, that engine sounds terrible. Number 4 is obviously not firing at all at idle, and you may have vacuum leaks on top of that...

Get the proper tools for the job and follow the factory service manual on setting the carbs TO THE LETTER...

I could write a bunch of stuff here, but it is already written in the service manual (including specs on stock jetting) so have at 'er.....

I should also add that you have to be sure you are getting proper spark on all 4 cylinders before attempting to tune your carbs. Check each cylinder for spark and ignition timing first, using a timing light....

Did you split the carb bodies off the manifold ?
If yes, are you sure you have the bodies in the right order with respect to vacuum and fuel line feeds?
Did you run a .009" wire through the castings with respective pilot jets, mixture needles ... (etc) removed ?
Did you gently push a .009"-.0012" wire through the brass jets where needed?

Didn't know it mattered that much with the gauge, but it was something I had in the garage while saving up for the right tools Definitely will follow it though. Just ran it again and noticed that when each cylinder is blocked the glove gets wet with gas a little due to the spraying. But the 4th carb only had a tiny bit when blocked. I'm going to take the carbs back off and triple check all components.

If you are on a budget - get the Motion Pro carb sticks. They are good enough for the average home mechanic; I've had a set for nearly thirty five years and used them on everything from twins to CBX's. Just don't let the engine suck up any mercury......

The spark and ignition timing was adjusted and both check out good, and when it was dissasembled the first time completely I made sure to put everything back exactly the same as it was and as for cleaning parts with the wire I didn't do thy. I did take each part out that I could/wasn't changing and blew compressed air through multiple parts. But I am going to go back and take it all apart again and make sure everything is cleared out.

Only use the "wire" if you suspect the port / passage / jet is completely plugged. If air passes thru, just spray with aerosol carb cleaner and then blow thru w/ compressed air. Remove any gum and varnish deposits with carb cleaner and a soft brass wire brush. If you are having problems with cleaning the carb bodies, get them ultrasonically cleaned at a small engine or motorcycle shop that has the equipment. You will save some money if you strip all the removable parts off of them first and only give them the carb bodies to clean.

Kray-Z wrote: If you are on a budget - get the Motion Pro carb sticks. They are good enough for the average home mechanic; I've had a set for nearly thirty five years and used them on everything from twins to CBX's. Just don't let the engine suck up any mercury......

The new ones do not use mercury. Thank the EPA. I have read that the new Motion Pro stick is more frustrating to use than the old ones, but still usable. It is also much cheaper than a set of proper vacuum gauges and cheaper still than the cream of the crop Morgan Carbtune.

Welp, it looks like the cheapo Amazon gauges are less than the Motion Pro.

www.motionpro.com/product/08-0411

www.carbtune.co.uk/c.com/

www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Carburetor-Synchro...-Gauge/dp/B004MSJ7E6