Clutch Slipping/Clutch disengaging

I have a 1981 KZ1000. I changed the clutch cable last year, I didn't need to adjust anything at the time. It worked fine. I put about 150 miles on it and the clutch started slipping or disengaging if you really got on it. It just revs and acceleration stops if you were over 3500 to 4000. It will do it from a stop or when you are already riding. I messed with the adjuster at the lever, I screwed it all the way into the lever. The problem stopped for another 50 miles now it does it again. It rides fine and accelerates great if you baby it and keep the revs below 5000. Anything above that and it revs to moon with no acceleration. Not a mechanic, what do I do??? Is the clutch shot?

Probably just needs a quick and easy clutch push-rod adjustment, which is a scheduled maintenance item.

Good Fortune!

Clutch push rod adjustment is a routine maintenance item explained in the service manual.

Assure having some "slop" in the cable.

Removing the access plate (access plate is above the shift lever where it's held on with two screws) should reveal the adjustment screw and locknut.

First, slightly loosen the locknut.

The hidden end of the screw interfaces with the push rod.

The basic idea is to lightly seat the screw against the push rod, then back the screw 1/4 turn away from the push rod, to thereby provide a small gap between end of screw and push rod.

Here's a possible snag ---
The screw is part of an actuator assembly.
On some designs (screw-type), the screw turns clockwise to seat before turning counter-clockwise to provide the gap.
On other designs (ball and ramp), the screw turns counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap.

If the attempted adjustment fails when turning the screw clockwise to seat before turning counter-clockwise to provide the gap, try again by turning the screw counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap.

Remember to snug the locknut before finishing. Just snug is plenty tight enough.

Lastly, reduce "slop" in the clutch cable to produce desired amount of free play in the clutch lever at the perch (on handlebar).







Good Fortune!

When I go to adjust the screw, where should my adjuster be at the perch? I have it screwed all the way in right now. Like half way out?

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessaily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

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end of excerpt

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While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch push rod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch push rod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch push rod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.


Good Fortune!

81cow1000 wrote: When I go to adjust the screw, where should my adjuster be at the perch? I have it screwed all the way in right now. Like half way out?

Maximum slack at the handlebar perch setting is okay while performing the push-rod adjustment under the cover plate located over the shift lever on the sprocket cover.

The reason for lots of cable slack is to assure that cable involvement is absent while doing the push-rod adjustment.
A perfect push-rod adjustment can be achieved with a broken clutch cable or where there's no clutch cable at all.

Upon completion of the push-rod adjustment, it is then time to use the perch slack adjustment (along with the mid-cable slack adjuster, if the cable so equipped) to set the owner-preferred slack when operating the hand lever.

If the hand lever feels sloppy and is flopping around while riding, perhaps the cable slack could be slightly reduced to tighten things up a little. Just be sure not to remove all the slack which would prevent the clutch from fully engaging.

Good Fortune!

If you're going to own the KZ you really need to buy a Kawasaki Service Manual. Otherwise you won't know how or even when to perform any of the routine maintenance that the bike requires.

Regarding the clutch slippage one other issue comes to mind - what motor oil are you using? Ed

I am amazed at how many bike owners think the cable adjusters are all there is to adjusting the clutch....

Kray-Z wrote: I am amazed at how many bike owners think the cable adjusters are all there is to adjusting the clutch....

Same here. I wonder if it's because they haven't bothered to buy a manual because they believe they can maintain the bike by relying on intuition or luck? Ed

Lol
With my OEM, stock clutch cable, my KZ has three different ways to adjust slack, lever and pushrod!!

650 Ed

Jeez Ed, dont hold back. I will be sure to get an owners manual as soon as possible. It is relatively difficult getting them in South Africa but sure I might find one online in the States. In the meantime guys like myself depend on google and wonderful sites like this one to help sort the problems that we encounter.
Again, I just want to express my gratitude
To all the members that stands ready to help and give advice, and to everyone else that makes this website so special.

Regards

There is site which has Factory Service Manuals, etc. for various Kawasaki models.

www.zedrider.co.uk/service--owners-manuals.html

Brian