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Engine oil extractor
- Fox
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The drain screw of the engine oil is impossible to turn.
I'm afraid to break the crankcase or the screw...
I decide to buy an electric oil extractor to do the job.
I place the tube on the engine from the left side of the hole, but no oil is coming...
I know there is oil inside btw.
If someone have any idea, or ever do this job, he will be welcome
1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD
1977 kz1000-B1 LTD
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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- Fox
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I read on the net that we can head the motor before doing this. Supposed to help. What do you think?
1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD
1977 kz1000-B1 LTD
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- Patton
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If not, what is the year and model?
Including information about bike year and model is helpful to viewers.
It's easy to put the information in your signature where it shows in all posted messages, past and future.
And the signature may be changed whenever and as often as desired.
If wanting a signature showing information about the bike in posted messages, it's easy to do.
Here's how:
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Nessism
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swest wrote: Try an impact driver on the drain plug. Get a 3/8" one and use a 17mm socket.
Steve
Hope the drain bolt is on the side of the engine and not the bottom, otherwise you will have to lay the bike on the ground sideways in order to swing the hammer.
I've yet to find a drain bolt that couldn't be turned out with a long handled wrench. 1/2" drive ratchet handle for example, with a cheater bar added as needed. If it takes this much force the threads may come out with the bolt though. If that's the case oh well, it needed repair anyway.
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- Patton
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Fox wrote: I will
I read on the net that we can head the motor before doing this. Supposed to help. What do you think?
It may help to heat the oil drain plug screw just before attempting to initially loosen it so it can be threaded out of the drain hole.
A heat gun or a propane torch may be used to direct heat onto the plug.
The heat is supposed to expand the aluminum that surrounds the steel plug (more than the steel plug expands), whereby the female aluminum threads relax their grip on the male steel threads, which allows the plug to be more easily turned.
It might be difficult to use the impact driver while the bike is standing upright.
Use a snug fitting socket of the correct size.
Try not to damage the plug by rounding off the corners.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- TexasKZ
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+1650ed wrote: Also, use a 6-sided socket rather than a 12-sided one. That will reduce the chance of rounding the drain plug. Ed
Been there, broke that.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- SWest
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The pan can be removed if it still won't come off.
Steve
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- Patton
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Also a good idea to remove the battery, especially if it has removable filler caps that would allow the fluid to leak out when leaned over.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- missionkz
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On a hot engine, use freeze spray from MCM Electronics (might be able to find a similar product locally, like Radio Shack).
Super chill JUST the drain plug while the engine casing/oil pan is still pretty warm/hot.
Use a 6 point socket and a standard breaker bar.
Did that on a stuck drain plug on my old RD400 Daytona and it just popped right off.
It came off easy enough that I thought I broke the threads out when it came right off... nope it just got loose and unscrewed.
I never put those back in without anti- seize compound or high temp greased threads but that one was the only seriously stuck drain plug I've run across.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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