Engine oil extractor

Hello

The drain screw of the engine oil is impossible to turn.
I'm afraid to break the crankcase or the screw...

I decide to buy an electric oil extractor to do the job.

I place the tube on the engine from the left side of the hole, but no oil is coming...
I know there is oil inside btw.

If someone have any idea, or ever do this job, he will be welcome

Try an impact driver on the drain plug. Get a 3/8" one and use a 17mm socket.
Steve

I will

I read on the net that we can head the motor before doing this. Supposed to help. What do you think?

Is the motorcycle in question a 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD?

If not, what is the year and model?

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Good Fortune!

swest wrote: Try an impact driver on the drain plug. Get a 3/8" one and use a 17mm socket.
Steve

Hope the drain bolt is on the side of the engine and not the bottom, otherwise you will have to lay the bike on the ground sideways in order to swing the hammer.

I've yet to find a drain bolt that couldn't be turned out with a long handled wrench. 1/2" drive ratchet handle for example, with a cheater bar added as needed. If it takes this much force the threads may come out with the bolt though. If that's the case oh well, it needed repair anyway.

Fox wrote: I will

I read on the net that we can head the motor before doing this. Supposed to help. What do you think?

It may help to heat the oil drain plug screw just before attempting to initially loosen it so it can be threaded out of the drain hole.

A heat gun or a propane torch may be used to direct heat onto the plug.

The heat is supposed to expand the aluminum that surrounds the steel plug (more than the steel plug expands), whereby the female aluminum threads relax their grip on the male steel threads, which allows the plug to be more easily turned.

It might be difficult to use the impact driver while the bike is standing upright.
Use a snug fitting socket of the correct size.

Try not to damage the plug by rounding off the corners.

Good Fortune!

Also, use a 6-sided socket rather than a 12-sided one. That will reduce the chance of rounding the drain plug. Ed

650ed wrote: Also, use a 6-sided socket rather than a 12-sided one. That will reduce the chance of rounding the drain plug. Ed

+1
Been there, broke that.

The bike can be lain on it's side with blocks supporting the alternator cover. A snug fitting socket is a must however it's done. The impact pushes down and turns the bolt at the same time. It's the shock that frees the threads.


The pan can be removed if it still won't come off.
Steve

Note fuel tank is and should be removed before laying bike on its side.
Also a good idea to remove the battery, especially if it has removable filler caps that would allow the fluid to leak out when leaned over.

Good Fortune!

Try this:
On a hot engine, use freeze spray from MCM Electronics (might be able to find a similar product locally, like Radio Shack).
Super chill JUST the drain plug while the engine casing/oil pan is still pretty warm/hot.
Use a 6 point socket and a standard breaker bar.
Did that on a stuck drain plug on my old RD400 Daytona and it just popped right off.
It came off easy enough that I thought I broke the threads out when it came right off... nope it just got loose and unscrewed.
I never put those back in without anti- seize compound or high temp greased threads but that one was the only seriously stuck drain plug I've run across.

Keyboard spray is a damn good idea. This old dog learned a new trick with that stuff. My soon to be son in law bought a modular A/C for the play room. With it was a "work around" on how to avoid having the system evacuated and recharged. You hook up the lines to the inside unit, fill it and the lines with that stuff (it's compatible with freon) to get the air out and hook it up to the compressor. Worked fantastic and saved $350. That crap is COLD. Had to use gloves to prevent frostbite. I'd try the spray first. I got a three pack at Wally world. $12. :woohoo:
Steve