Small bolts in head and retorque

I have to finally retorque my head after rebuild.
I did 60 miles and the engine is SWEET.
i have a couple questions:
1: when i do a retorque i should loose the 5 small bolts between head and barrells? And the nuts between barrells and cases?

2: when i retorque the head, i think i have to NOT loose the stud bolts.just retorque in sequence. Is this OK?

I dont want to make a damage, the engine is fantastic.

I 5honk 5he manual is specific here. Nuts then bolts. Do in order.loosen 10 degrees or so and torque to spec. I was suprise how loose they got on my 1000. All needed retorts. R

I believe you should retorque all the head nuts and those 5 screws too.

Loosen the fasteners just enough to get them cracked loose and then quickly reverse rotation and tighten them to spec. Hopefully they will only need a small amount of tightening to come up to proper tension.

One time I rebuilt an engine using Athena gaskets and the torque fall off after running the engine was quite extreme. I had to retighten several times, the last time of which I noticed the base gasket extruding out of place. The crappy gaskets couldn't take the clamp load. I learned that Athena = garbage. Hopefully you used OEM Kawasaki gaskets.

Be sure to double check your torque settings.I used the Clymer manual and nearly met with tragedy.Wrong numbers.I realized in time though,which was lucky.

I have OEM Kawasaki head gaskets and orings. The cylinders base gasket is Not OEM but at this moment is fine, no leaks

shamal wrote: I have OEM Kawasaki head gaskets and orings. The cylinders base gasket is Not OEM but at this moment is fine, no leaks

Well, hope the base gasket isn't GREEN (Athena).

At any rate, torque them up. If the torque is way low you should plan on coming back in a few hundred more miles and retorquing again until you get stability between checks (no torque fall off).

Good luck!

No isnt green. Its a gasket from a german brand , generico , i cant recall the brand name..
Color is Like a light brown-yellow. Typical gaskets paper.
OK i leave the bike in the garage for tomorrow. On the morning she will be cold and i will check the torque.
Ill let you know.
But is very so crytical this re torque procedure?
I can say the engine its at his best.
I read the Kawasaki manual , it Not mention nothing about loose and other things, it simply say after the first startup wait until the engine its cold and then thight again. And i think its referring about to stud nuts only

Nessism wrote: I believe you should retorque all the head nuts and those 5 screws too.

Loosen the fasteners just enough to get them cracked loose and then quickly reverse rotation and tighten them to spec. Hopefully they will only need a small amount of tightening to come up to proper tension.

One time I rebuilt an engine using Athena gaskets and the torque fall off after running the engine was quite extreme. I had to retighten several times, the last time of which I noticed the base gasket extruding out of place. The crappy gaskets couldn't take the clamp load. I learned that Athena = garbage. .

Been there, did that..... base gasket disintegrated and came out.

Nessism wrote:

shamal wrote: I have OEM Kawasaki head gaskets and orings. The cylinders base gasket is Not OEM but at this moment is fine, no leaks

Well, hope the base gasket isn't GREEN (Athena).!

If the gaskets are questionable, use them as stencils to make new ones out of good material. You can get good material at Auto Zone.

The base basket is almost out in the front side, on the left ... Uuuuh!!! I have no leaks so i think i was very very lucky.
I tried to retorque the head nuts but they did Not accept any rotation. The electronic wrench says 16.8/17 ft lbs in Evert nut.
Since the engine is perfect i think i will do nothing more..at the moment.