Exhaust Stud 8mm, 92004-058 / KZ750 csr twin

Need some info.. Ive got some pretty badly rusted exhaust studs on my 82 CSR 750 twin.

I'm pretty confident I can remove the rusted nut with some heat and PB blaster.. but I would like to replace the studs as well.

Unfortunately,= (like so many parts on this seemingly obscure KZ model) the studs are discontinued. Looks like most kz studs are around the same size... anybody know another years exhaust stud that will fit the 82 csr? Perhaps the studs from the 4 cylinder ?

These folks say they have them (part # 92004-058). I have bought from them before and was pleased. Ed

PARTS SUPPLIER
www.nosparts.se/parts.php

PARTS DIAGRAM
www.powersportswarehouse.com/p/Kawasaki#...50-M1-1982/080102B-4

Z1Enterprises.com has exhaust studs. I'm not sure if they have the correct size for the 750-CSR.

Penetrant. This is one of those cases in which I'd probably get some Kroil. It's usually considered to be one of the best, if not the best. Liquid Wrench penetrating spray lubricant would be my second choice (it's what I normally use). The stuff is readily available & cheap, and it did quite a bit better than pb blaster in a couple of tests I've seen floating around the internet.

heat & vibration also help to remove stuck fasteners. propane torch. wood block & mallet. used carefully.

Thanks Martin.. The only issue with the nut removal is that with the stud still in the engine, and the bolt being rusted to said stud, I doesn't have room to clear the frame. So It looks like I will have to be very careful and try to remove it while still threaded in the engine. My plan was to take a torch to it for 15 seconds, then hit it with some water until cool. And then give it a good spray with PB blaster.However, I might just spring for some Kroil or Liquid wrench instead since it seems to come to highly recommended.

Says they have 4. I submitted a pricing request so we will see what happens. Cheers!

I would apply the penetrant, then tap tap tap with an oak block & mallet. spray some more & tap tap tap. then some heat. cool. spray & tap tap tap. etc etc etc. give the penetrant time to work between treatments. let it sit overnight. then do it all again. maybe over a period of several days. If there's room on the end of the studs, install nuts flush with the end of the stud, to help spread the load while tapping it. The studs have been in there for 30+ yrs. :ohmy:

update:

doused studs abd nuts with pb blaster and let sit overnight. Came right off with little effort in the morning. As for the parts wharehouse that showed studs in stock... they redunded my money as their inventory was wrong. seems nobody has those studs anymore... good thing The penetrant worked.