'82 Kz750H connecting rods

I am currently rebuilding my '82 KZ750 engine and want to plastigage and inspect the rod bearings before I begin reassembly. My question is, are the connecting rod bolts torque to yeild or can they be reused? The bike only has about 9,000 miles on it and the crankshaft bearings are in great condition so I don't think new rod bearings will be necessary but I want to be absolutely sure.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Seems like that woukd be something addressed in the factory service manual, which I assume you have? Yes?

I actually do not have the factory manual. The bike was sort of a barn find and had no accompanying paperwork/manuals. My main resource right now is the Haynes manual and this particular topic is not covered there.

you can download a factory manual here
mbsween.bike-night.com/kz750l3/manual.html

martin_csr recently posted a link to a better quality pdf but unfortunately while I saved that pdf I did'nt save the link

1982 KZ750-H3 Ltd chain drive.

Manual. 750turbo.com --- Index .
1980-84 KZ750-4. 1983-85 ZX750. pdf manual. good pdf scans.
there is a complete manual, plus sections of the manual divided into 15-20 pdfs but those may be incomplete. not sure.

Wiring diagrams. mbsween. bike-night. KZ750L3 . Scroll down & click "The Bible" link.
the site has wiring diagrams & a 750-4 pdf manual that isn't scanned as good as the one on the Turbo site.
Note: some of the wiring diagrams are mislabeled in the links: the 1981 Ltd is an H2, the 82 is an H3, & the 83 is an H4.

The question about reusing the rod bolts is not addressed in the factory service manual. To me this suggests reusing the parts is perfectly fine. This is the norm as far as I know, and torquing to yield is a relatively rare practice.

When recently rebuilding my 750E engine, which has similarly low mileage, I removed one of the rod caps to visually inspect the bearings, and after finding they looked perfect, I decided to not mess with the others. I retorqued the nuts on the rod and all is well. Of concern with this process is to make sure you have a proper torque wrench.

One bolt on the engine which I found WAS a stretch bolt was the ones for the head that fit down inside the cam chain tunnel. These bolts have a reduced shank size and were stretching BEFORE the factory specified torque value was reached so I stopped tightening before they snapped. I bought brand new bolts for this location too. Be very careful of those.