kz 550 pissing me off. really weird things ,heelp!

Thank you! Meanwhile i can post pics of the plugs
From left to right #1#2#3#4

#1#2

#3#4
The number #1 is black because of the pilot jet dropped in the bowl i think...

Those are brand new D8EA after an hour of trying to idle and sync.
I already replaced then with other 4 new pkugs.

What you read in those image? Thanks

They're run able. You need to run them for a while for a accurate reading.
Steve

your are surely right, anyway with today's gasoline reading the color of a plug is not so accurate ... i think
today i will be able to try i IC igniter from a working bike, i found someone that can lend it to me. stay tuned :laugh:

#4 looks a little lean and #1 looks a little rich, but I wouldn't say any of them are terrible.

We are all talking about ignition and coils - I think you mentioned you have spark on all 4 plugs? In my experience, when a coil was bad, it did ok idling, but higher rpm or under load they would fail. When they were cold it was also fine and once they got a little warmed up they failed.

But, if you had a jet not installed, I'm sure that did not help in the least. and if you have no o-rings on your pilot screws, I would think that would cause major issues as well. Did you ever do the clear tube method to inspect the fuel level? I'm fighting with my 82 carbs right now... I got new needles and seats, and either the needle/seat is longer than the ones coming out OR the ones coming out are so worn and fatigued that they sit lower - so I am currently in the repetitive process of dialing in the fuel level.... And I found recently if the fuel level isn't spot on, the bike ran poor - too high it was ok for the most part except at higher rpms and too low it would fall on its face starting from a stop...

Thank you for your reply mate.
I found at least the carburetors mix screw top orings. Now air cant pass down.
I found also a spare set of float needle with OK spring loaded pin.
About fuel level i set them to 27mm as Kawasaki say.
I tested the coils and they are good.. I think the problem may be the igniter. I found another to try but i did Not yet.
In the next days i think i will do another "first startup" with the new igniter and carburetors that are the best i can did.
I let you know!

Clear tube test on the carbs.
Steve

what steve said. Never ever have I bench set floats to spec and actually had the clear tube method agree with it.

My bench settings are usually very close to being final, but I replace both the needle and seat. I don't know what will happen when only replacing the needle.

Quote...." I have left coil for cylinders 2 and 3 , right coil for 1 and 4."




Maybe it makes no difference but both of my bikes 76 900 and an 82 1000 have the coils for 1 &4 on the left side and 2&3 on the right .
And pay close attention to which electronic trigger wire goes to which coil

yes barry, for the 550 i know my config is right. green trigger on the left, black trigger on the right.

someone know the proper carburetors jet size ?

Barry2 wrote: Quote...." I have left coil for cylinders 2 and 3 , right coil for 1 and 4."




Maybe it makes no difference but both of my bikes 76 900 and an 82 1000 have the coils for 1 &4 on the left side and 2&3 on the right .
And pay close attention to which electronic trigger wire goes to which coil

The smaller (750 and smaller) are opposite of the big motor (900 and up) bikes.

ok. after :
-a good carb reconditioning (oring on the mix screws-fuel level- float needles with better springs etc)
-changed 12v wire for the left coil, that where pinched
-new d8ea

i filled the carburetors with gasoline. no overflow problems, all ok, and she started and finallly IDLE on 4 cylinders, just a little bit rough, but she idle at 1200 rpm. after a bit of warm up she doesnt' refuse the throttle. it's running.
.the only'' problem'' i can see its a certain difficult to reach very high rpm only when i open wide suddenly the throttle. (she a little bogging) maybe, or maybe not, because of the old hardened diaphragms (but at all with no cracks)
cylinders temperature after a pair of minutes: 170-180-165-170 c°
all this WITHOUT being synched. later i will do a sync, and i think she can improve.

i think we can rule:
1- the ''sticky valve'' problem.
2- the ic igniter trouble , since i swapped it (with another i know it's working), and she run in the same way.
3. the pick up rotor 180° off (or she won't start at all, i think)
4- a general ignition system trouble.

i think my poor abused carburetors are now at the best they can do. i want to buy a spare carburetors rack.

tips? opinions?