Replace camchain, guides, tensioner or all of it?

Seems to be this one: www.lellesmcdelar.se/topp-120/kamkedja-92637
The page is in swedish, not sure what type of chain it is, but sounds like it would be the same as yours.
(Actually, it is the same, this page also tells what other models it fits, and it has the Z750 in it's list of models where this chain would also fit).

Yep. Same as mine. It takes a lot to stretch one of those. I bet you will find it measures well within the service limit.
Good luck

The chain doesn't actually stretch. The pins get worn with wear thus the chain gets longer.
Steve

Hopefully you are right, then i might only have to get a tensioner rebuild kit and/or chain guides.
I will see about the guides when I lift of the head and cylinde, the tensioner, well, I have to disassemble it and check the springs I suppose

What makes you think you have to do all that?
Steve

swest wrote: What makes you think you have to do all that?
Steve

Well, there have been rattling noises coming from the engine a few times, sounding like if the chain is not tensioned enough.
So, in order to see wether new chain guides is needed, as far as I have understood from reading the manual, I need to lift up both the cylinder head and the cylinder.
And in order to check the springs for the tensioner, I need to take it apart (as it is now, it's simply pulled out of the engine, I have not yet checked the tensioner pushrod, only the cam chain push rod.

And, I will anyway need to take off the cylinder head and the cylinders.
I got a small oil leak at the cylinder foot, so I need to change that gasket, and while I am anyway changing that gasket, I will change all others from the cylinder foot and up, as I bought a full gasket set.

If you adjust your valves you can inspect the cam train at the same time while the cams are out. The adjuster you can take apart to see if it is at the end of it's adjustment range. If you take the head off you might as well check the valves and guides. Also replace the valve guide seals.
Steve

Hmm, I thought I had to atleast remove the cylinder head in order to take out the chain guides and inspect them?

But anyway, the cylinder foot gasket and the gasket between cylinder head and cylinders needs to be changed anyway, they are leaking oil.
So when I anyway have to take it all off, I can aswell take out the guides and have a good look at them to be sure they are all looking good.
I guess (and hope) I will be able to see if they are worn to the point that they have to be changed.

You don't just take out the guides. The head is heated and they are driven in/out. Best done by a shop. I've done mine and others for years but the next time I send a head in, I saved myself a few bucks but the seats had to be done anyway. I will have all of it done next time. You can inspect everything yourself if you know what to look for. It seems the base gasket is a issue on these machines. Perhaps modern gaskets will cure this problem.
Steve

Good advice, thank you!
I will know then not to take out the guides myself.
Just hope they are not worn that much then.. I can't afford the cost of having a shop do it for me.
A good job done is of course always worth paying for, but only if you have the money to start with

A FSM will be more helpful that a multi year book. I have both. 7000 miles? They should be fine. Post pics as you go along. A lot of it you can do yourself and it's fun if you like that sort of thing. Check out the links in my Sig. and others. Mine was done in 87 then parked a short time later. I had a three angle seat grind done so all I did was put in new valves and seals. I got burned out on mechanical work and was a single parent. My life was making money and raising my kids. Now I like wrenching again and am looking at it a lot differently.
Steve

swest wrote: A FSM will be more helpful that a multi year book. I have both.

FSM? What's that?