Clutch push rod adjustment

Not long ago I replaced the long factory three piece aluminum/steel clutch push rod in my engine after it had worn completely through and the protruding end of it fell to the bottom, inside the front bevel gear case. See pics.

Shortly thereafter, I replaced it with a one-piece steel APE push rod. Now occasionally I hear a slight chirp sound when releasing the clutch lever, and attribute it to the rod touching the metal ring (in the side of the engine case around it) as it spins. I don't feel concerned about it since it is steel, but...

I verified the push rod adjustment is correct according to the FSM. Now I'm wondering about the adjustment method, or if there is supposed to be engine oil not getting to that wear point for some reason?

Is that your new push rod? It goes through the end bearing cap for the primary shaft. It should be under oil pressure at all times. Looks like it's spinning but it shouldn't spin that much. Inside the clutch basket where it will meet a ball bearing, then the push rod foot. The ball bearing is so the rod won't spin along with the engine RPM. If there was a oiling issue, the bearing might have welded itself to the foot. I'd pull the cover, unbolt the pressure plate, pull the clutch disks and make sure it is free. You might not have the bearing in there.
That push rod looks like it's getting ready to break again for this reason.
Steve
On second thought, you shouldn't have to pull the disks. Just the plate.

swest wrote: Is that your new push rod? It goes through the end bearing cap for the primary shaft. It should be under oil pressure at all times. Looks like it's spinning but it shouldn't spin that much. Inside the clutch basket where it will meet a ball bearing, then the push rod foot. The ball bearing is so the rod won't spin along with the engine RPM. If there was a oiling issue, the bearing might have welded itself to the foot. I'd pull the cover, unbolt the pressure plate, pull the clutch disks and make sure it is free. You might not have the bearing in there.
That push rod looks like it's getting ready to break again for this reason.
Steve
On second thought, you shouldn't have to pull the disks. Just the plate.

The first pic was early this year when I just replaced the housing gasket because it was leaking. I don't think I even pulled the rod out of the motor at that time. The other two pics were taken more recently when the rod broke, and I had to go back in there again to deal with that. Last pic is the broken rod placed together with the broken end piece. This rod was replaced with the solid steel APE rod...

When it broke, I pulled the center-cap (behind the snap ring) from the clutch hub to access the rod(s) from the right side of the motor. That was when the suspected broken rod was verified, and determined the front bevel case would have to come off again, to remove the broken piece that fell in there.

First out was the short push rod (about an inch long), followed by the ball bearing, and finally the broken (long) rod. Other than the broken rod, the short rod and bearing appeared to be in perfect condition. They were reinserted properly along with the new APE rod at the time of reassembly. I even put grease on the rod to lubricate it to start out with...and it's been in the engine for around three thousand miles now...

So there's a metal ring on the APE push rod?
BTW, what did it cost? Mine has wear marks on it and I turned it around once. I may need one too.
Steve

Where the rod inserts into the engine...the steel disk with the hole, sandwiched between the engine cases.

APE says that breakage was a primary reason they make the one-piece (hardened) steel replacements to solve the problem.
See:
www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...00&item=AP13116-1007

That's the bearing end cap. There are needle bearings in there. There has been some dishonest guys trying the sell trannys on eBay without the caps. I suspect because the wear would be evident in the caps. What not to buy.
Thanks, it won't fit my Z1 but I'm sure they have one that would fit. $35 isn't too bad. One more thing for my list. :whistle:
Steve

You know, for a outsider looking in, a lot of money is wasted on parts for a 40 year old motorcycle. They wouldn't understand why we do it. What they don't know is the pleasure and security of knowing what is going on in between our legs. They'd rather spend $30,000 on something new that will be in the shop more than on the road. The added plus is you can't just go out and buy one. It takes time, work and money to have a classic. Cheaper too in the long run.
Steve

wrote:

You know, for a outsider looking in, a lot of money is wasted on parts for a 40 year old motorcycle. They wouldn't understand why we do it. What they don't know is the pleasure and security of knowing what is going on in between our legs. They'd rather spend $30,000 on something new that will be in the shop more than on the road. The added plus is you can't just go out and buy one. It takes time, work and money to have a classic. Cheaper too in the long run.
Steve
 

 

wrote:

Not long ago I replaced the long factory three piece aluminum/steel clutch push rod in my engine after it had worn completely through and the protruding end of it fell to the bottom, inside the front bevel gear case. See pics.

Shortly thereafter, I replaced it with a one-piece steel APE push rod. Now occasionally I hear a slight chirp sound when releasing the clutch lever, and attribute it to the rod touching the metal ring (in the side of the engine case around it) as it spins. I don't feel concerned about it since it is steel, but...

I verified the push rod adjustment is correct according to the FSM. Now I'm wondering about the adjustment method, or if there is supposed to be engine oil not getting to that wear point for some reason?

On the early Z1/KZ's there's a small O ring in the bearing cap I suspect to keep it from rubbing. The APE push rod seems to have a place for two. (good idea) Listed as unavailable at Z1E and APE.
Steve. 
 

You need defintive a clutch push rod upgrade!!! I made some new out of stainless steel, it will last forever.


 

you using needle bearing pusher ??

His KZ1100 engine comes with a bearing pusher in the clutch spring plate!
It could be the bearing is shot or frozen, so the push rod is spining to fast.