Valve adjustment without shims?

I have a 1980 kz1000, is there anyone who can link me to the basic info on valve adjustment procedure, pics preffered.

Can the valve clearances be adjusted without the use of shims? I have not had the valve cover off yet, but I don't have any of these shims on hand,n so assuming there's adjustment to be made, am in going to need a shim set?

It is not a terribly complicated procedure, but there are about a thousand ways to screw it up, some can be catastrophic. You really need a factory service manual. It carefully explains the procedure and has pictures. Somebody on the forum may have a PDF copy they can send.
Yes, you will need shims. That is how the gap is adjusted. Unless you have a friend, or know of a shop that will swap and sell individual shims, you will need to own or have access to a shim kit. You will also need proper feeler guages, tools to remove and install the shims, basic wrenches and JIS screwdrivers, or suitably modified Philips screwdrivers. Most importantly, you will need that factory service manual. It is the one published by Kawasaki. Not Haynes, nor Clymer, nor Uncle Bob.
With the proper tools, parts and instructions, it is really not a tough job.

You need to measure the existing gap as it is, then remove the actual shim and read what number is inked or etched on it.
Then you use a chart from the FSM to tell you number you need, from that one you removed, that gives you the spec'd gap.
When you have all those numbers, you order the shims you need and let the bike sit a week. Sorry.
By the way... except if you did a recent valve grind job... it is very unlikely that you'll need to buy but just a couple three shims to get it back to stock.
They just don't need a new shim that often unless very high mileage.
Over the last 40,000 miles I checked mine four or five times and have replaced only three shims.
However, after a recent rebuild and a fresh valve job with three new valves (on a different back up head) I needed to move all the current stock of my shims around and had to buy three fairly thin shims then I had in hand.

missionkz wrote: You need to measure the existing gap as it is, then remove the actual shim and read what number is inked or etched on it.
Then you use a chart from the FSM to tell you number you need, from that one you removed, that gives you the spec'd gap.
When you have all those numbers, you order the shims you need and let the bike sit a week. Sorry.
By the way... except if you did a recent valve grind job... it is very unlikely that you'll need to buy but just a couple three shims to get it back to stock.
They just don't need a new shim that often unless very high mileage.
Over the last 40,000 miles I checked mine four or five times and have replaced only three shims.
However, after a recent rebuild and a fresh valve job with three new valves (on a different back up head) I needed to move all the current stock of my shims around and had to buy three fairly thin shims then I had in hand.

I'm currently in the same spot. I had new valve seat cut and valves tipped so I went from 2.50+ to down to the 2.30-2.55 range. Needless to say I had to buy all new. I used these guys www.motoparthub.com/?search=29mm+shims&x...775616.34&formValid= as they were only $23.41 for a set of 5. I know there are guys here that are willing to swap shims with you here.