clutch actuation pull vs push and lockup questions

For those who have tried both cable operated clutches, is the old kz650 scew type pushrod activation or the gpz750 clutch cover mounted pull type mechanism superior? Has anyone used a gzp750 clutch cover on a non kick start kz650/750 before? All the newer sport bike designs that use cables seem to use the pull style now.

kz style





gpz style












My next question is about adding a lockup to the kz650 clutch. For those questioning the need I am going to turbocharge the engine, I have not had much luck finding a donor 750 turbo motor to build yet so my plan is to build the 650. I would also like to retain the kick start though which presents a few problems with the spacer required for the lockup arm clearance. My idea is to cut the top off the kickstart clutch cover and weld on the top from a gzp750 to gain the clearance and convert to the pull type mechanism. All I would need then is an extended pull rod to match the height that was added to clear the lockup correct? Has anyone done anything like this before or if not is there anything obvious that i am missing as to why this would not work or is not a good idea?

Here are some pics of the kit grumpy made for the turbo guys for reference.

spacer


stock gpz puller



extended grumpy puller



Anyone know a source for a lockup made for a puller type like this with the extended rod other than the ones grumpy made?

if you look at the design of a kz 900/1000 lock up clutch you do not need a spacer .just a taller cover.

Standard KZ900/1000 snowflake lockup will work
with the stock push rod type clutch and that's the way
I'd go and cut the cover and have a band welded in to make it clear.

As for a I clutchI run the APE KZ1000 extra plate clutch setup
My motor makes high 90's hp at the tire and it'll spin the tire long before
it would slip the clutch..

I see how the standard push system would not need a lomger pushrod if you did not use a spacer for clearance and extemded the cover somehow but you would need it for a pull type how ever you make the space.

Has anyone had experience with both to compare? Puller seems simpler and more efficient, probably better feel with less complexity and the rack and pinion section is on the oil side unlike the pusher screw system being left out in the cold next to the chain. There must be a reason they changed the design.

The APE KZ1000 extra plate clutch setup? This is for a 650, does the 1000 clutch basket fit on the 650? I've also heard of drag issues with the extra plate setup, which was part of the problem I was already fighting with a worn out ungreased pusher and worn cable. Also I'm using a 2006 gsxr 1000 rear swingarm with a 190 tire and likely well over 90 with a bit of boost so the stock 650 clutch is probably going to be a bit out of it's happy zone upgraded clutch pack or no.

Work in progress

The basket from the big fours doesn't swap but the plates are the same.
they just run more of them.

Using the KZ1000 extra plate kit in my GPz750 motor I had
one steel and one friction plate left over but gained one of each in my clutch pack.
It also changed the stack height which changed the lever angle at the case end of the cable
and had about a 1/2" usable travel at the hand lever. and acted like an on/off switch..
Heres how I dealt with all that and now I've got the most usable clutch setup my bike ever had.