Metal clutch plate

  • spdygon
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Metal clutch plate

26 Jun 2015 06:35
#678315
Need to know if there is a correct way to install the metal plates. One side has a round edge and the other side is not.
I check another engine I have and the plates are the opposite.
So which way do they go...round edge out or in or does it even matter?
1982 GS1000sz Katana ( #15...17K Miles)
1982 GS1000sz Katana ( # 297....7100k Miles)
1978 Kz1000 Z1R. 10K Miles1
1978 kz1000 z1r 27k miles
1977 KZ 1000 A ( Project ) 54K Miles
1976 Kz900A4 (Red)21K miles
1976 Kz900A4 ( Red)7500 miles
1974 Z1 900 project

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  • 531blackbanshee
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Re: Metal clutch plate

26 Jun 2015 08:35
#678328
i say it don't matter.
the surface of the plate and the face of the splines is all that contacts anything.

leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0

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  • missionkz
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Re: Metal clutch plate

26 Jun 2015 10:04 - 26 Jun 2015 10:08
#678333
I'm not 100% sure myself. 99% sure though.
Considering that the driven friction plates rub, slip or lockup on either side of the steel plates at all times when the engine is running, does it matter at all?
The only time they aren't locked up is when you pull the clutch lever in.
So, I don't think so.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
Last edit: 26 Jun 2015 10:08 by missionkz.

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  • KZB2 650
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Re: Metal clutch plate

26 Jun 2015 10:07
#678334
I was wondering the same thing a while back and asked Jeff at Z1 ......... he was out and took a couple of days to get back to me so I installed em sharp side in thinking it has a tiny bit more surface and might bite harder.

He got back to me and told me it really is no big deal but curved side "might" engage a little smoother and the main thing was to keep them all the same...... I have them out again as I just replaced my starter clutch and will probably put em back sharp side in as they felt good for the first 400 miles after I replaced em.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.

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  • missionkz
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Re: Metal clutch plate

26 Jun 2015 10:20
#678335
KZB2 650 wrote: I was wondering the same thing a while back and asked Jeff at Z1 ......... he was out and took a couple of days to get back to me so I installed em sharp side in thinking it has a tiny bit more surface and might bite harder.
Trying hard not to LOL!
That wouldn't make any real difference.... it just means that the friction plate at the start of the clutch pack housing or the one at the end near the spring plate would see the final smooth edge.
Honestly, although fun to talk about stuff like this, I think that whole idea of front and back is just silly and you can randomly put them any way you want with ZERO effect.
I bet the sharp and smooth edge is an artifact of stamping out the plate and nothing more.
You have more of a chance of sensing the clutch feels different by chamfering and smoothing the inside of the clutch housing basket slots where the tabs of the friction plates move slight;y back on forth during lock up and release.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado

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  • spdygon
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Re: Metal clutch plate

26 Jun 2015 11:47
#678344
Cool....we all know now...lol
1982 GS1000sz Katana ( #15...17K Miles)
1982 GS1000sz Katana ( # 297....7100k Miles)
1978 Kz1000 Z1R. 10K Miles1
1978 kz1000 z1r 27k miles
1977 KZ 1000 A ( Project ) 54K Miles
1976 Kz900A4 (Red)21K miles
1976 Kz900A4 ( Red)7500 miles
1974 Z1 900 project

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