Clutch Fitment

I have a 1976 KZ750B1. I am trying to replace the clutch plates but I am seeing some confusing inconsistencies with information from different manufacturers/retailers.

According to z1 the clutch plates for the KZ750B1 and the KZ750G are the same...which makes sense seeing as they are both 750 twins.
The EBC catalog doesn't list fitment for the KZ750B at all. But they do list fitment for the KZ750G. For the 750G they list CK4435 as the part number for a stock replacement cork clutch plate set. They list the same part number for the KZ750K as well. From what I can find the 750K is also a twin.

The list of other bikes that use the same part number clutch plates is quite long. Since I am having trouble finding a performance clutch plate for the kz750B is it safe to assume that plates for a 750G will fit/work?

Nobody knows?

Does anybody know the difference between the 750b and 750g?

Yes the part number for the is the same for the KZ750B1 and the KZ750G so the EBC plates will work. The G model has different wheels, seat, handlebars and fenders. The engines are 95% the same, the carbs and charging system are different from your B1.

Ok. Thanks for the help. That's what I was thinking. Was the g sold in america? I tried looking up oem part numbers for it directly from kawasaki and from bike bandit and neither of them list it as an option.

Yes it was sold here in the US and is listed as "KZ750-G1 LTDII. The best prices I've found for OEM parts are these folks.

www.metricpartsoutlet.com/index.htm

Good to know and thanks for the parts source.

The clutch on my bike slips if I drop a gear and yank the throttle. I run Castrol 20w50 motorcycle oil (non-synthetic). As time goes the slipping gets worse. I pulled the plates out and they are all within spec but some of them have concentrated wear spots (they are not all even all the way around). They all measure ~3mm (within spec) but on some of the wear spots they measure a small as 2.8mm. I know this is still within spec but given the fact that the clutch has been slipping and the plates have not worn totally even I am still thinking I should replace them.

The cable is adjusted properly so I know that is not the source of the slipping and it still slips even after a fresh oil change.
I still need to test the springs for proper tension but now I am looking for opinions...

I have read that some people swear by the stock replacement cork friction plates. The bike is heavy (as are all 750 twins) and I weigh 250lbs so I am thinking an upgraded clutch may be a good idea. I also occasionally ride with a passenger so this doesn't help the weight.

I am considering the EBC SRC46 www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-SRC46-Street-Clutch/dp/B006O71VTM

Has anyone had any experience with it?

I am a bit wary of going with a HD spring since the clutch pull on the bike is already quite stiff.

Opinions? Experiences?

APE Track king clutch is as close to OEM as you can get
and at $63.00 it's hard to beat.
Also all the KZ fours use the same clutch so get the KZ1000
replacement friction's.

Hard to beat the NOS Kawasaki plates and I've always run Barnett HD springs....... they along with EBC springs are only a 10% increase in pressure so I really don't think there is a whole lot of difference in the lever feel ...... I just replaced my worn out ones and hardly felt the difference at all ......some add a washer to new stock springs but I like the idea of going with the HD ones instead.

Check out Partzilla ........ 13088-040 plates are only 6.63 each .....are listed for the 1976 KZ750B1......... My KZ650 and the 1000s list 13088-030 plates needed and are 12.33 each........

Awesome guys. Thanks for the input. I decided to go with the EBC cork replacements and EBC springs. Got all of it from Amazon for $64 with prime shipping so they will be here by Friday...I love prime shipping.

Make sure you service the clutch perch and clutch release. I disassemble mine every spring and inspect the pivot bolt and the pivot bore in the lever. If either shows much ware I replace them, The clutch release (the mechanism located down by the counter shaft sprocket ) almost never needs replacing but always works better if it is clean and lubed. I use a good waterproof grease when I assemble it. Inspect the cable and lube it too and your good to go.