To grind or not to grind... Valve stem tips

Now I need two or three 225s and maybe a skinny 230... or take the valves out and have the tips ground between ..001" and .004" so I can use different combs of shim thickness to make it all up.

Some of the measured lash gaps at .002", some at .006" and one is a fat .007" ... all with using the hand full of #215 shims I have.
So, I'm thinking two 225s to close the big gaps up.
But .002" feels a little tight to me. I'd rather they were all .003" but maybe that's too anal...

I have two others at .004" with 235s ... not sure if I should take a chance on these with 240s and also grind the tips a .001"- .0015".

Been very careful over the many years of valve lash adjustments, with my shim gaps never under .002" and some as much as .003"-.004".
I'd prefer a tad loose then tight, but, .004" to .007" seems too loose
The only way to get in between those standard shim, thicknesses, where the sizes change .00197" (.002") up and down from number to number, is to remove all the valves and have the stem tips ground a thousands of an inch....???
What is the general consensus?

missionkz wrote: I'd prefer a tad loose then tight, but, .004" to .007" seems too loose

On my 750 twin, I run them .003 - .005". The original FSM said .002 - .004" but later many places said Kawi had opened it up to .002 - .006".

Does anyone know definitively if the 29mm shims can be ground .001" or so?
I've read two or three, totally different, answers to these shims being hardened all the way through or just a few thou's case hardened.
I've also heard of a few guys doing it with zero consequence.
I have access to surface grinder and a large handful of "close but no cigar" shims.... I don't know what to believe.
I could trim a couple of my 235's down to 230 and two of my 230's down to 225 with only a .001" grind from each side. ETC>>>>
I read somewhere that they are slightly doomed too.... my micrometer does not back that up.

I would not grind the shims at all. There has been a considerable amount written documenting the reasons you should not, and I am convinced it is a mistake to do so. Ed

I've also read you can grind off a couple thou from the stem button under the bucket.
Anyone??

Yes. It is common to "tip"the valves after recutting the seats. There is a special tool for it.

Right but I was talking about the little button inside and under the shim bucket....
Probably dumb....

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYes, you can grind the vave tip slightly -usually when the shim gets below the minimum available. I have a -0.10 and -0.15mm, not sure how far you can go under this.

I was going to offer you some free, i have a box of 60, just not in your shim over bucket size.

Is this nearly what you need? vendor claims z power uk have them in stock....good luck anyway.

Yes, the 29mm shims.... they run anywhere from $7 to $10 plus around $4-$6 shipping here in the States

Sorry thought they were unavailable...surely the cost of a head gasket alone would be more than the cost of buying new shims?

Seems like a difficult way to solve an easy problem

Tipping the valves .010 is good. Tipping the valves and grinding the bucket "button", DISASTER. Think about it, the button keeps the lifter cup from hitting the valve spring retainer.
Steve

missionkz wrote: Yes, the 29mm shims.... they run anywhere from $7 to $10 plus around $4-$6 shipping here in the States

Rather than risk messing up your engine trying to avoid buying shims that are over-priced I suggest you simply find shims that are more reasonably priced.

For example - Z1E sells the 29mm shims for $4.82 each (rather than the $7-$10 ones you found). Ed

www.z1enterprises.com/ListItems.aspx?keywords=12037-001