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New / Replacement pistons & rings
- Rustyhama
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So The next move would be to go to a 0.5 over bore but I cant get the pistons or rings (well extensive internet searches come up with nothing) So what is the process to get custom pistons & rings made. I know this will cost plenty but if I got it done the engine would be like new again so worth it.
Eventually I'd love to pass this bike on to my son so long term it will be worthwhile.
The part numbers are 13025-1007 for the 0.5 rings & 13029-1019 for the pistons.
Some other issues left side carb is always wet with fuel. I've checked the float levels, the floats move freely and the float valves look fine. I could try bending the tank to really drop the float level but if I go too far it will effect performance right?
I checked & re-set all the valve clearances to spec, it's running well but the valves are noisier with a constant tapping sound - anything to worry about there?
I also found a couple of small holes in a diaphragm, I tried the gorilla glue fix, it hasn't worked 100% but it is better - as in slides down slower than before. How does this effect performance?
Any answers greatly appreciated as always!
P.S. after a couple of vintage Kawis coming up on TradeMe recently there are none right now. Getting harder to get...
Hama
'82 KZ305-B1 Cafe Racer
'80 Z750E project
www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=59260.0
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- Patton
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Would perform a compression test and a leak-down test.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- Patton
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swest wrote: If your carb is flooding the cylinder...Fix that first. The problem may go away....
Yes. If the crankcase oil has been contaminated and diluted with gasoline, it could cause the smoking exhaust. Because the diluted oil gets past the oil rings and into the combustion chamber.
Perform the sniff-test on the crankcase oil, and examine its physical quality.
If diluted with gasoline, do fix that first.
It's often caused by a leaking float valve (for whatever reason).
And of course change both oil and filter before again starting the engine.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- TexasKZ
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A torn diaphragm in a carb can lead to wonky idle, poor throttle response and even excessive engine noise as the two carbs will be out of synchronization . More often than not, a replacement diaphragm is the only solution.
Fuel height, not float height, is very important. The factory service manual and several dozen posts on this board carefully describe the correct procedure. If you don't have a copy, get one. In the mean time, try the searc box here for "clear tube."
Re-synchronize the carburetors and move on to the next problem. Actually, carefully following the major tuneup procedure in the factory service manual would be a good way to get all those systems up to par and may identify other problems needing attention.
Even if the smoking remains, these things will need to be done for the engine to operate as it should.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- kawi810
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original owner of a 1984 gpz 750
1985 turbo 750 stock, being restored.
1984 gpz 750 with 810 cc wiesco's megacycle cams(471-10) 34 mm flatslides v&h pipe ported head dyna ignition. bottom end, crank case from turbo 750 and sprockets.
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- missionkz
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Did you mean that the #280, if being a finer grit stone, will seat faster or the other way around?kawi810 wrote: .... A bore finish honed with #280 grit stones will seat faster than one finished with #220 stones".some times you are better off letting a shop hone your cyclinder.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
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- kawi810
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original owner of a 1984 gpz 750
1985 turbo 750 stock, being restored.
1984 gpz 750 with 810 cc wiesco's megacycle cams(471-10) 34 mm flatslides v&h pipe ported head dyna ignition. bottom end, crank case from turbo 750 and sprockets.
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- Rustyhama
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I'll try to get another diaphragm / vacuum piston part - they are spendy! Has anyone had any luck with the aftermarket diaphragm only replacement (& from where?) Woah hang on! I just found one on e-bay for $45 + 9 bucks shipping to NZ! My lucky day!
It's mostly my right cylinder that is smokey and I think it always has been even before the new rings were fitted - hence doing them in the first place. Usually it is the left carb the low side on the side stand that is damp with fuel. Last time in the carbs I swapped the float & float valve to see if it made any difference. It did - they are both damp now!
So the float needles are easy enough to get. Are the aftermarket ones ok? I've inspected mine several times and they look fine - no groove around the viton but I almost need a magnifying glass to see properly they are so small.
Ive done the clear hose test and it looked ok but I can try it again. Bend the tang to suit...
Also my petcock is stuffed, the rubber part with the hole is mangled and doesn't work. It makes taking the tank off a real PITA! I guess I should sort that out too.
Thanks for all the great advice team. It certainly gives me a path to follow.
Hama
'82 KZ305-B1 Cafe Racer
'80 Z750E project
www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=59260.0
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- Rustyhama
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Hama
'82 KZ305-B1 Cafe Racer
'80 Z750E project
www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=59260.0
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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