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Cam Chain Tension Blows out of Cylinder block
- Yorkie
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'72 Z1
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- 650ed
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www.timesert.com/html/faq.html#1
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- jakedude
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Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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If it's a Climer or Haynes, I suggest cutting all the pages into 4" squares and save them in case you run out of SHT paper.
There are those that think their's is the only way. :sick: I learned a long time ago, if someone gives free advice, it's worth just that. In the end, if something happens, it's your fault. Ether way, you're left to pick up the pieces.
Steve
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- 650ed
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swest wrote: ..........If it's a Climer or Haynes, I suggest cutting all the pages into 4" squares and save them in case you run out of SHT paper.......
+1 :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: I knew there must be some practical use for those manuals. :woohoo: Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- KraZyRIDER
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650ed wrote:
swest wrote: ..........If it's a Climer or Haynes, I suggest cutting all the pages into 4" squares and save them in case you run out of SHT paper.......
+1 :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: I knew there must be some practical use for those manuals. :woohoo: Ed
...They make great door stops and wheel chocks, too.
...One manual for a door stop and two for a wheel chock.
Mean Green Speed Machine!
1979 KZ 650-C3 (Cafe Project)
1982 GPz 750-R1
1981 GPz 1100-B1
2005 H-D XL1200C
2006 H-D XL1200C
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- MDZ1rider
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- Yorkie
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When I installed the tensioner I pushed the rod all the way back into the housing and locked it in place. Once I installed it into the block released the locknut to allow the tensioner to engage with the guides then locked it again. I timed the cams as per the factory manual (lined up the marks on both cams, counted off 28pins, etc) and it turned over nice and freely with a wrench. Before I spun it over I gave it a few turns with the kickstarter to move some oil around and it was not tight at all.
One thing that did puzzle me was that when I was rotating the motor with a wrench the tension on the camchain would vary.
'72 Z1
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- SWest
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Steve
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- Yorkie
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'72 Z1
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- 650ed
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If you do that with the cylinders still mounted on the engine you will have bits of metal falling into the crankcase. This is NOT a good thing!
Consequently, to do the job correctly you really should remove the cylinder block. Since you need to remove the block you should have the Timeserts installed rather than the Heli-Coils because the Timeserts are more permanent fix than the Heli-Coil.
It's you bike, and your money, but correcting stripped threads once is better than doing the job twice, and having metal bits fall into the crankcase may end up costing you big bucks.
Here's a link that shows how to install Heli-Coils. Notice under "Installation Procedure" Step 1 - drill out hole; Step 2 - tap the hole. Those steps cannot be done without some metal being pushed through the far end of the hole. In your case that means those metal bits will fall inside your engine.
www.repairengineering.com/helicoil.html
Notice that in the link below that sells Heli-Coil items every Heli-Coil kit contains a drill bit and a tap. There's no getting around the fact that they are needed to properly install the Heli-Coils, and that means setps 1 & 2 above must be performed.
www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Threading/Th...=12105989+4294959763
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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