swapping heads

I've been sharpening my blades and bits for ever. Carpenter/Jointer. The practice just carried over to everything else.
To each his own.
Steve

i will try some cutting oil next time and see how it works out. Im always open to learning and trying new things. thanks for the info. dave

If it a steel bolt in an alum. thread I use a mig welder and
set a nut over it and fill the hole.
The heat cycle free's the bolt and doesn't hurt the alum. thread

Swest by the way a 900 and a 1000 have the same size valves 73-80. 36mm intake and 30mm exhaust. 81 and up J-model are diffrent.

Looks like you're right.
My bad.
Steve

trianglelaguna wrote: little different cams....more teeth on the the crank...you have MKII in the 80..get a 79 head...or machine shop to fix it...the broken one can be a hassle...tad different..not exact swap...not 100% though.....might just need to swap cam sprokets from the 80 the the other cams....then it is a direct...smaller dia exhuast studs too but that is no big deal..just use the right nits...

Take the head to someone who has the proper tools to extract the broken bolts and repair the threads. I'm not trying to be a prick to you....but believe me....I've seen too many hack jobs on such problems to even begin to count them.

I had a head in a short while back that someone broke off a cam tower bolt. Then they got in there with a drill and broke that off and followed that up with a tap and broke that off as well.... It was a mess. It was an expensive repair by time it was all sorted out.

Some things are just better put in the hands of experienced people than to be taken on by those without tools and the best of intentions. Find a machinist in your area, show them what you have and get an estimate... You may be way farther ahead by the time it's all said and done.... JMO

First thing I did was install 16 heli coils in my cam caps before I sent it in for re working ..... I know time serts would have been better but I had at least a little experience with the coils so I stuck with them.

Made me a nervous wreck doing em but they turned out good ...... in your case though I think I would a had a pro do it for me.

my broken bolt is below the surface by about 1/4 in . where # 1 cap is # 2 has two holes stripped i am gonna take it to a machine shop. after looking at it for several hours getting pissed off more and more at the previous owner because he used standard bolts instead of metric for those three. plus there was no o ring on the jugs he filled the groove with orange goop. a simple gasket change turned into a pain in my ass! sorry i guess im still pissed off.. anyway you guys are all awesome. thanks for the help. golng to the machine shop today.

I've had broken bolts in this area and it is such a pain when you are nearly done and buttoning it up, often to have to remove the head again.

Drilling down through the exact centre of the bolt as detailed above is how I do it, but I use a bit of cutting paste too. One of those jobs you need to take time on, if your centre punch indent is in the wrong place you are stuffed already.

Now I always replace all the the bolts with new m6 high tensile allen bolts. These bikes may have had the cams removed several times over the decades, also for me I don't usually get valve timing right first attempt, so after quite a few loosening and tightnings these bolts stretch and get weakened over the years.

If in doubt best get someone experienced to do it for you, rather than risk screwing it up and creating even worse problems.

He was a Pro, just ask him. :laugh:
Steve