Cam chain replacement difficulty.

To a novice wrench it might be beyond his pay grade. Mistakes can happen and do early on. In my case, I had done the overbore, replaced the valves, rollers etc, but didn't replace the chain. Lack of money mainly and I knew I could do the chain later. After breaking one and the disaster that followed, I always had that dread in my mind while grabbing a hand full. That was two builds ago. This last one my chain sagged 1/4" lower than the new one.
I say, unless it is breaking or has some other issues, let it be.
Steve

Been using the master link cam chains for years without issue. Back in the day before they made cam chains with a master link we use to buy a new cam chain split it then reuse the link and rivet it back into place. I have done this a lot over the years and I have never had one fail.
For that matter Honda used the master link cam chain on their CB450 twins from the factory. The engine was designed so that the cam chain could not be installed until the head was on. You then snaked the cam chain around the sprockets and through the head and riveted the master link on.

Nothing wrong with a split cam chain, if done right. Done it both ways myself, one done about 15 years ago and still working fine.

A lot of camchain rattle is the 'auto' tensioners that stick, rather than wear in the chain.

Usually by 50k they will be worn, likewise primary chains on the 550/650/750 models.

Tyrell Corp wrote: Nothing wrong with a split cam chain, if done right. Done it both ways myself, one done about 15 years ago and still working fine.

A lot of camchain rattle is the 'auto' tensioners that stick, rather than wear in the chain.

Usually by 50k they will be worn, likewise primary chains on the 550/650/750 models.

The key word there is done right.
If a motor is worn enough to need a cam chain and other related parts,its not a whole lot more work to split the cases and check everything else while youre in there.

Copy that.
Steve

Agreed. Just to clarify, thinking more, I did it nearly 25 years ago, I was still a teenager and a GPz550 was my 3rd but first 'proper' bike, but my mechanic skills were very amateurish then. The motor was about 35k miles and I now know that the problem was the cross wedge 'auto' tensioner, not the chain. Mileage probably less than 10 000 as the chain was used in another engine, still in use today.

There is a member on GPz550 forum who is at about 70k miles on the original cam and primary chain.
Another member who is on here too does a big daily mileage on unsplit cases. The key is well looked after and mature owners doing long journeys rather than kids doing short journeys and thrashing them cold imo. Agreed most are usually are smoking and rattling well before that ,

OP check the 20 link minimum service limit as detailed in the manual first, if it is worn then replace.
If the motor isn't rattling or smoking and still pulls really strong then I'd go for a split camchain. The crank and transmission on these are pretty durable.

50k miles if you just ride around.......i seen motors with 15k that were driving hard any chance the owner had with the cam chain tentioner fully extended.
for example my 77kz1000 when bout had 43K. owner said he rode the bike hard all the time. one day the bike would not turn on so he park it. i found the chain over extended with head and block damage.
pick the type of chain for your driving style.

Forgot to keep an eye on this post
I planned on taking the motor all the way down anyway, get the pistons cleaned, clean the crankshaft, check bearings, all that good stuff. If I can find an endless chain for not an arm and a leg, I'll probably go that route.

Z1E has the endless ones. You timing should be spot on if you change it.
Steve

Get the heavy duty Tsubaki chain, get it very soon as they have ceased operations and Z1E only had a few left (if at all).....once they are gone, they are gone forever