Cylinder Hone and ring seating

wow i did not know that, i always thought engine oil's primary function was to minimize metal-to-metal contact reducing- friction and wear.if you reduce friction you reduce heat.

Exactly. Heat is the enemy. Cause and effect. You get a cookie too.
Steve

Currently building an engine (1045cc) and a question in regard to honing cyls........is there a preferable side for the hone to enter the cylinder?? Top ( head side ) or bottom ( crankcase side )?? I know the bottom side has a taper for cyinder rings to enter the cylinder during reassembly and was told to remove the hone while still turning. I would think this would damage the top of the cylinder?? Any thoughts??

That would depend on the type of hone, the condition of the cylinders etc. With a ball hone it can be done. With the block style, the hone can be broken as it comes out. I'd say from the bottom. The most important part is a 45 degree cross hatch. Is it a new bore? If not is there a ridge at the top? Check the bores by using a feeler gauge at top, middle and bottom to make sure there is no taper and they are even.
Steve

I am using a block style hone.........deglazing cyls only. No ring ridge at top of cylinder and cyls measures within specs.
I understand the cross hatch is most important for cylinder and new rings to breakin properly.

A de glazing hone can be used but a course one just a few passes will seat the rings RIGHT NOW. I take it it is not a new bore. What makes you thing they are glazed?
Steve

No not a new bore.....engine has been in service and cyl walls are very shiny. I am installing new rings and want a complete seal

This website has instructions on how to properly use a hone. www.enginehones.com/

A ball hone is the proper tool to deglaze used cylinders. A straight hone can skip over low spots.

With used cylinders a 240 grit hone is about right. You can go up to 320 with chrome rings, but 240 works well in my experience. The engine hone website provides guidelines on this as well.

I used a deglazing hone on my last build but because of a oil issue I had to tear it down again, the cylinders were at the end of spec. The fine scratches were still there and the rings didn't seat. I bought a KZ 1000 barrel set with rings and pistons. Not having a replacement piston, (one was scored) I installed the stock ones for the time being, the cylinders were like new. When I pulled the head for a valve overhaul, the scratches were still there again. Soon I will be putting in my new 10.25/1 Wiseco pistons and rings with a course hone. I don't want to have to do this over and over.
Not every one can buy it all at the same time. I could have but my daughter and grandchildren needed a car desperately so I made do. I didn't get a cheap one for $15-2500, no I was selfish and got them a 04 Malibu for $5000. I didn't want to have to work on my bike and a cheap car so now I can focus on the bike.
Steve