1980 LTD 750 stuck tach drive/ leaking

Okay before I destroy anything, how the heck do you get one of these tach drives out of the head!! Yes I've removed the two retainer clips! The tach drive unit just spins in its bore. I'm hesitent to try and pry it out?
Is the O-ring so hard its stoping the unit from coming out? Or is there another way the unit is retained in the head??? I don't have to pull the valve cover and remove the ex. cam do I???? HELP I don't want to ruin anything!

The tach drive gear guide is not threaded into the cylinder head, so you can turn it forever and it will not unscrew. If you remove the valve cover you should be able to see what's going on so you can pull it out. You will probably want to remove the valve cover anyway when you re-install it so you can properly align the tach gear with the cam. Ed

650ed, Thanks!! I hate to admitt it but I'm not a novice to turning wrenchs... And I should have bought a manual first! I've spent the last 15-20 years away from working on bikes, at one time I made a pretty good living in some larger dealerships. I started to get back into the life recently. Mid Life what -ever.
Back in the day I specialized in British, Italian , German, and Honda motorcycles. When the dealership hit the slow season I worked on pretty much everything. But I can't for the life of me remember dealing with one of these Tach Drives!
I'm working on a 1980 LTD, it sat outside for at least 3years, and before that it sat inside for at least 8years.
I've spent way to much time and money on it already.. It had frozen master cylinders, ( both will be replaced ) ,pitted caliper pistons, Looking for suitable replacement calipers, gas tank cleaned up good but the carbs were hopless with two broken vent tubes, and solidified gas deposits. I found a set of really clean carbs on E-Bay, the throttle barrel was fused on to the buckhorn bars and of course the tach drives seal and o-rings are hard as a rock and it leaks.. The tach is frozen but I thought I'd see if I could open it up and mess with it... The four cylinder sprang to life after I spent a lot of time cleaning and setting up the e-bay carbs. I'll have to dig out my vaccum set and finish them up... Somewhere on here I read a thread about removing the airboxes on these bikes. Personally I've always tried to retain the stock air box. And back in the day I would incourage customers to as well.
As if this jewel isnt enough I also have a 1980 KZ 650 setting here in a pile! While the 750 is in tact and most of its conponets work, the 650 is a real basket case... I've always like the KZ bikes, their lines are classic. It brings back alot of good memorys working on this bike , I look forward to cussing and blowing more money in the future! Thanks again.

delete

No need to remove the cam cover at all. Just pull/pry as turning to remove the guide. When replacing just turn the center part which is the drive gear/shaft as you are pushing the guide back into place it will not go all the way in if it is not engaged properly with the gear on the cam..

EZrider, thanks for the reply... The tach drive came out just as you described. I guess I ran the engine long enough syncing the carbs that the old hard o-ring used to seal the drive housing softened up enough for the unit to come out. As for the seal on the inside of the unit, I used a 3/8 lag bolt to pull it out. The seal was so hard it wouldn't come out using a pick... The bolt was clamped in a vice and the seal/houseing were screwed on... The seal pulled right out.
I guess I should have given it more of a chance before I wined on ths forum !!! This is a four cylinder if I didn't mention it earlyer.. I'd say there are some pretty savy postings on here... A wealth of information and experiance for sure!

Thanks again..