KZ1000 Wiseco head gasket advice??

(1977 KZ1000 with Wiseco 1075 pistons, Cometic 1 piece head gasket)

When I took the motor apart, I noticed that the big 0-ring seal was missing from the groove around the cam chain tunnel. Later on, I read somewhere that when you use an aftermarket one piece head gasket, this seal is omitted. Then... I found a few sources that say to fill this channel with RTV. (And no, I don't have any instructions since this Wiseco kit was already installed.)

This makes sense to me, but my questions are;

Do you fill the channel iand let it dry before installing the gasket, OR would it be better to put the gasket on while the sealant is "wet", and let it adhere to the gasket?

I'm also wondering if it would be advisable to apply a thin layer of Yamabond to the cylinder head side of the gasket, around the same area?

(I am just really concerned about ending up with a leak in this area!)

Well I just did mine. I got same advise, used the black RTV.

Taped around the area, filled the cavity with the RTV and smoothed it with a putty knife. I wanted it to be a-bit high just a few thousands to help seal. Any high spots can be lightly taken down with a razor blade.

during the cure, I pulled the tape.......don't wait till completely dry. It will give you a great edge.

I have been riding for a month or two with no leak, works great.

No need to add sealer anywhere else, put the gaskets on dry.

HEADS UP: You need to apply a grease to engine stud threads and washer before you torque you head bolts down.

Fill the 'O' ring groove with RTV.
Let it set overnight and then slice it flush with a razor blade.
On assembly a light amount of RTV applied fore and aft of the cam chain tunnel will reduce any chance of weepage from those areas.
I've had them leak at the camchain tunnel on occasion without the RTV applied but never with so it's worth doing as a precaution.

Thanks for the answers, gents

The most important thing is to retorque the head after the first heat cycle. Let the motor get stone cold overnight, then go over the head nuts with a torque wrench. Don't forget the two 6mm bolts on the ends of the block as well.

If you do that process, you'll keep those potential oil leaks from starting. Won't hurt to check it again in 100 miles or at least in 500 when you do the valve adjustment.

Excellent to know Larry- thanks!

LarryC wrote: The most important thing is to retorque the head after the first heat cycle. Let the motor get stone cold overnight, then go over the head nuts with a torque wrench. Don't forget the two 6mm bolts on the ends of the block as well.

If you do that process, you'll keep those potential oil leaks from starting. Won't hurt to check it again in 100 miles or at least in 500 when you do the valve adjustment.

I've seen some folks recommend slightly loosening each head nut before retorqueing it, and doing this one nut at a time (not loosening them all first). Is loosening them slightly something that should be done, or is that counter-productive? Ed

I think I remember Larry putting something on the threads and not loosening before retorqueing

I found an auto transmission seal that fit into the o ring grove and used silicone.
Rectangle in shape with just enough squish.
Works great with copper head gasket.