Clutch problems

So, I got this old KZ440 engine out of a guys garage to put on my older bike. One difference in the engine is that the clutch cable goes to a tab on the right side instead of under the left side cover like the other engines I've worked on (and the one my manual talks about). Of course that means its the part of the bike giving me the biggest headache.

Basically, I couldn't get the clutch to disengage so I took off the side cover. I'm wondering if there is a spring or something that could be broken. Should I be able to disengage the cluch with my hands with the cover off?

I'm biting my nails down to stubs trying to make this work.

Thanks.

I can't help you on this issue but I can tell you that posting pic will help. You can do so from a smart phone running the Tapatalk app or from you computer like so

VTMNG wrote: ... KZ440 engine... couldn't get the clutch to disengage so I took off the side cover... Should I be able to disengage the cluch with my hands with the cover off?....

No. As it should normally require more than finger pressure on the push-rod to compress the clutch springs.

In order for the clutch to disengage, the clutch push-rod must be properly adjusted, whereby there's a slight gap between the adjusting screw and the push-rod.







Good Fortune!

I'm not that familiar w the right side clutch cable adjuster setup. my disclaimer, hee.
Do you think the clutch cable is installed & routed correctly? At the right side clutch cover, is it routed thru the bracket w the adjusting nuts on either side of the bracket.

From an EN450 manual, you're supposed to loosen the adjusting nuts at the clutch cover, then loosen the thumb adjuster at the lever by 5-6 mm, pull the cable tight, then tighten the adjusting nuts, then do the freeplay adjustment at the thumb adjuster. It says if the correct adjustment cannot be made, the cable must be replaced. I think I got that right. hee.

martin_csr wrote: I'm not that familiar w the right side clutch cable adjuster setup. my disclaimer, hee.
Do you think the clutch cable is installed & routed correctly? At the right side clutch cover, is it routed thru the bracket w the adjusting nuts on either side of the bracket.

From an EN450 manual, you're supposed to loosen the adjusting nuts at the clutch cover, then loosen the thumb adjuster at the lever by 5-6 mm, pull the cable tight, then tighten the adjusting nuts, then do the freeplay adjustment at the thumb adjuster. It says if the correct adjustment cannot be made, the cable must be replaced. I think I got that right. hee.

Loosen the cable as much as possible. Both the thumb tension adjuster and the one built into the cable then follow Patton's adjusting screw instructions. Then tension the cable.

The cable routing to the opposite side of the adjusting screw should look like this...



If you didn't mess with the above since it last worked just assume it is ok.

One last thing. After doing all of these adjustments does the clutch lever on your handle bar feel like the clutch should be working? Does it feel like the clutch is engaging and disengaging. If it does it probably is working. Your clutch plates can stick after sitting cold. So don't think you can spin the back wheel with the bike on the center stand, in gear, and the clutch disengaged. Get the bike off the center stand, put it in first gear, apply brakes, disengage the clutch and try to start the bike with the engine set to off. If yours won't turn over in the off position just put it in run and start it. You might feel it jump a bit coming unstuck.

jakedude wrote:

martin_csr wrote: ... clutch plates can stick after sitting cold....

Good point. And a common condition when a cold engine is first started, even when the clutch is perfectly adjusted. Squeezing the clutch handlebar lever feels normal, but the clutch plates remain stuck together despite the springs being compressed in their disengaged position.

Shifting from neutral into first either (1) lurches the bike forward and kills the engine, leaving the plates still stuck together, or (2) lurches the bike forward and frees the plates with the engine still running and thereby completing true disengagement of the clutch.

One procedure is to apply the brakes and have the engine revving high enough when shifting from neutral into first gear so that the plates are forceably disengaged, which produces a lurch and loud clunk. Disconcerting, but doesn't seem to do any particular damage to anything.

Another procedure is to remain seated on the bike and roll the bike slowly forward when shifting into first gear and getting underway. Usually, the plates will fully disengage normally thereafter without sticking. At least until the next cold start.

Am uncertain as to exactly what factors contribute to the sticking-when-cold, but perhaps include oil type and plate condition. But my bikes have always seemed to suffer with the condition.

Good Fortune!

Thanks for all the ideas. I'm going to paint the engine cover before I put it back on, so I wont be testing with the cable on or the engine started for a few days. I don't have a picture of it and cant find my camera, but I'll work on that. In the mean time, here is a picture of one that looks the same:
cycles.ornatecode.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/P1000101.jpg
[img]http://http://cycles.ornatecode.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/P1000101.jpg[/img]

I'm pretty sure it doesn't have the adjuster Patton mentioned and it definately doesn't connect together like Jakes picture (I have worked on those engines before and would feel less mistafied).

I'm not sure that this is the correct schematic, but it seems close:
cdn.partzilla.com/diagram/kawasaki/08/0124/H-14.png


Previously, before I took the engine cover off, I could jam through the gears without aplying the cluch and could start in in nutral. When I jammed it into first it would learch and die (not a big surprise). Not sure if that gives any info to help with the stuck plates ideas, but that's what's up.

Thanks for all the help and ideas.

jakedude wrote: Loosen the cable as much as possible. Both the thumb tension adjuster and the one built into the cable then follow Patton's adjusting screw instructions. Then tension the cable.

The cable routing to the opposite side of the adjusting screw should look like this...
....

His clutch adjuster is different from most other KZs.
The cable attaches to the right side clutch cover, not the left side.
The 550 Shaft models & EN450 are similar.

VTMNG, the pic you posted is the later (1981-83) mechanism. It requires a clutch cable with an adjustrt built into the end that clamps to the case.

"VTMNG, the pic you posted is the later (1981-83) mechanism. It requires a clutch cable with an adjustrt built into the end that clamps to the case. "

I got a new cluch cable, it just wont move the clutch.

For curiosity's sake, what cable did you get?

When you had the cover off, did the clutch pushrod look normal & did the end of the clutch release look normal? The EN450 manual says to check the pushrod to make sure it isn't bent, and it says to check the fit of the pushrod in the spring plate bearing & to check the bearing for wear or damage. My guess is that there isn't much margin of error, so the fit & stuff has to be good.

Downloadable repair manual:
www.kz440ltd.wz.cz/kawasaki-kz440-service-manual.pdf

see page 292





Good Fortune!