Adjusting cam clearance on the bench

i have my KZ1000 top sitting on the bench with new valves in it. I am trying to adjust the valve clearance on the bench without installing the top (just to make sure everything is right with the stem heights. etc). I have installed one of the cam shafts, but I am not able to turn them by hand in order to line the lobe up to do the clearance check. Is this not possible, or is there some ultimate trick to do this? :blush:

Thanks.

Never mind, I got it turning by using a flathead screw driver and bending on a tooth on the sprocket. Seem to work nicely.

Make sure to recheck clearances after torqueing head down on motor.

PLUMMEN wrote: Make sure to recheck clearances after torqueing head down on motor.

Yep, will do

Thanks.

Make sure you have the head elevated so the valves don't hit the work bench and bend a valve too. Ever since Steele gave me that advice I've wondered if I would have done it.

My clearance stayed very close ...... two opened up a thousandth and 3 stayed the same with the other 4 loosing or gaining only a half a thou.

Never thought of rotating the cams either ..... I removed em and put em back in for each valve ...... glad I installed heli coils in all 16 first.

tommyboah wrote: i have my KZ1000 top sitting on the bench with new valves in it. I am trying to adjust the valve clearance on the bench without installing the top (just to make sure everything is right with the stem heights. etc). I have installed one of the cam shafts, but I am not able to turn them by hand in order to line the lobe up to do the clearance check. Is this not possible, or is there some ultimate trick to do this? :blush:

Thanks.

My motor guy has a set of VERY light valve springs that he uses in such an application, then changes them out for the final install.

PLUMMEN wrote: Make sure to recheck clearances after torqueing head down on motor.

Why?

I'm with baldy on this one.
I think if the clearance change's from torqueing the head
some thing ain't flat

It was beaten into my head years ago by a very wise man from Oklahoma city back in the 80s ,went by the name of Sid Pogue.
Id say its a safe bet that Sid has forgotten more about Kawasaki cylinder heads than most of us could ever wish to know.
If you ever get the chance to see how much the bores in a cast iron chevy smallblock distort when a torque plate is bolted down onto it before honing,youll gain a great deal of respect for how much an aluminum cylinder can move when you crank the studs down on it. :laugh:

100% agree.

I always used to shim my heads on the bench. Then assemble top end of motor.

Used to get at least one valve where the clearance changed after assembly.

I am only talking 1 or 2 thousands at most, but it changed!!!

Dr. Gamma wrote: 100% agree.

I always used to shim my heads on the bench. Then assemble top end of motor.

Used to get at least one valve where the clearance changed after assembly.

I am only talking 1 or 2 thousands at most, but it changed!!!

Yep...it can happen. The head is just a big chunk of aluminum and it flexes.