KZ750 CSR Valve guide oil seal failure update

Beautiful thank you. I saw the same diagram in the manual and was confused because the pins I have in there now do not have the oring orrifice. I believe that should solve the problem....

Thanks again, bountyhunter. You are a gentleman/woman and a scholar.

Got any suggestions how to remove them from the block? I tried rigging up a harmonic puller but it bent the plate! Its really in there. I may just replace the o rings on the top. Do you think that would be a problem?

I would wait for a second opinion but you might be able to heat up the block a bit then use canned air upside down on just the pin so the block would be expanded and the pin would shrink making it easier to remove,. You may want to try the Kroil and let it soak for a few days first.

Good luck and glad to here that you may have a solution.

kaw-a-holic wrote: I would wait for a second opinion but you might be able to heat up the block a bit then use canned air upside down on just the pin so the block would be expanded and the pin would shrink making it easier to remove,. You may want to try the Kroil and let it soak for a few days first.

Good luck and glad to here that you may have a solution.

I thought I was the only one that used the canned air upside down trick

Il for sure give that a try. Do you think that it would be an issue to leave it in? I really really pulled on that thing and it didnt budge. Could that be a sign that oil couldnt leak out of there anyways?

bpchura wrote: Got any suggestions how to remove them from the block? I tried rigging up a harmonic puller but it bent the plate! Its really in there. I may just replace the o rings on the top. Do you think that would be a problem?

My first valve job I gave up and couldn't get them out the top. I just replaced the O rings on the top ends. When I did the full rebuild I had the cylinder off and drove them out from underneath.

bpchura wrote: Il for sure give that a try. Do you think that it would be an issue to leave it in? I really really pulled on that thing and it didnt budge. Could that be a sign that oil couldnt leak out of there anyways?

Not for sure. I think the O ring gets forced into the cylinder face and over time, the heating welds the rubber in place. On mine, I could get the tubes to turn but not move up or down pulling on the top ends.

Alright well Im going to replace to top ones and hope the bottom seal themselves up. Im not too worried about it. That should have it thanks again!

bpchura wrote: Alright well Im going to replace to top ones and hope the bottom seal themselves up. Im not too worried about it. That should have it thanks again!

Post here and let us know if that fixes the problem (I don't think it will, but I've been wrong once or twice).