Wisesco 1075 clearance specs

I have my motor apart due to a failed cam chain tensioner. It's a 1977 KZ1000, bored to 1075. Initially, I had planned on reusing my rings when I put it back together. I have been told and read a wide variety of beliefs on this practice, so I am rethinking my plans a bit. Anyhow, I think the best thing to do is take the block & pistons to the shop I get all my work done at, and have them look at and measure them for me. What I have been able to find is that the standard Wiseco piston to wall clearance is 0.051 mm. The bores appear good- (at least in my dimly lit garage) so I am hoping that a light hone will not push my clearances out too far. Does anyone know what the MAX recommended clearance is for the Wiseco pistons? I've been told they are tighter than factory specs due to the fact that materials of the Wiseco pistons make them not expand as much. However, that is about all I can find.

I'm not familiar with the larger engines but I'm in the process of rebuilding my 750/4 engine right now and have the factory manual in front of me. Kawasaki doesn't list a max allowable piston to cylinder clearance for my bike, rather they list a max bore size which is .100mm over nominal, which seems like quite a lot. When you add in the new piston clearance of about .050 you get .150mm. Manual states bore taper and out of round must not exceed .05mm, which likewise seems like quite a lot. Disregarding the manual for a minute, I "think" a good rule of thumb is to not exceed a piston to cylinder clearance of .120mm, with .025mm out of round or taper. This is just my opinion though, not specific to Wiseo.

Wiseco wouldn't give me a max clearance. They just said that 2 thousandths (.0508 mm) is optimal. The Kawasaki manual says something like .043 - .070 mm, so I guess I'll just hope to fall somewhere in there!

My rule of thumb is if there is no ridge on the top of the cylinder and the piston ring gaps of the rings you took out are within specs then just run a ball hone through it and reinstall.

0.051 mm is their std safe figure for general use but you can run tighter or looser depending on the engines final spec.
e.g. you would run looser on a turbo or race motor.
If the motor was running fine except for the tensioner then there's no need to touch the barrels or rings at all.
Honing your bores and re-fitting your rings is pointless and worse than leaving it all alone, it's like fitting old rings in a new block.
If you hone you need fresh rings also so they bed in together.
Just re-assemble with new gaskets etc and it will run exactly as it did before.

Sorry, I didn't explain my situation very well. I was hoping it was all going to check out ok, and just reassemble it as-is, re-uising the rings. A handful of older, more experienced guys told me that if the pistons came out, you were wisest to do new rings and a hone, otherwise there was a good chance I'd end up with a puffer. I began to think against re-using the rings. That's why I wanted the specs, to make sure I had room to do so.

However, once I got the block in some good lighting, I realized that there are scratches in bottoms of the bores, and it should be cleaned up. I took the block and pistons to the shop and they measured them. Luckily, my specs were tight, (like half of what Wiseco calls for!) so it will get all cleaned up, and I will be in the exact spec.