Seized Screw - SOLVED

Okay, before everybody tells the standard replies... Yes, I've tried them.

(BTW, the screw in one of my crankcase bolts. I'm changing the gaskets)

I used an Impact driver, didn't help. Eventually the Phillips head stripped. I then cut a slot into it and with an impact driver (with a slot head this time) I was able to move it about .5 to 1 turn. Still REALLY difficult to turn and now the slot has stripped quite a bit and widened.

I also tried a reversed thread screw extractor, but the tip broke off in there. I bought another, different extractor set (the kind you need to drill a hole first and then bang the bit in. BUT I'm having a bugger of a time drilling a hole. I think a piece of the first screw extractor is still in there making my life very difficult at the moment.

So my question is. What are my options now. There is definitely something wrong as the screw SHOULD have 'broke' free after the first turn I got it to do. But this wasn't the case. Should I shave the sides down and have at her with a wrench/pliers? Do I need to cut the head off so I can pull the crankcase off and work on the remaining protruding portion of the screw?

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

John
'83 KZ440

where is the part that penetrating fluid was used? soak it down and let it work.

Can you get a vise grip on the head? If so, rock it back and forth a few times after a good soak of penetrating fluid. It should loosen up and you can remove it.

Did you try applying heat to the screw. If a locking agent was used, this will loosen it up a bit.

The screw is probably corroded in the threads due to unlike materials working on each other (aluminum and metal)

Do I need to cut the head off so I can pull the crankcase off and work on the remaining protruding portion of the screw?

this might be your best bet
good luck

What I'd do is to find a nut that fits the broken bolt, if there is enough of it protruding and put the nut on the bolt. Then very carefully weld the nut on the bolt. A mig works best because it can weld quickly without a lot of radiant heat. The heat on the threads and the solid nut almost always do the trick.

Well a Phillip screwdriver tip will definitely strip a stubborn Kawasaki screw because they are NOT Phillips. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) and using a Phillips driver is a very bad idea. PLEASE, before you damage any other screws, do yourself a favor and take a look at the following link:

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335

When you do run into a stubborn fastener STOP before you apply so much force that you break or damage it or the aluminum it is threaded into. Fasteners, except those bonded with Locktite, are meant to be removed without excessive force. Unfortunately, they sometimes bond with the the material they thread into. When this happens there is a pretty simple remedy, it's called Kroil. You soak the fastener for a couple days with this stuff and it creeps between the threads and breaks the bond. It has saved me much pain and suffering over the years. See the following link for more information. This industrial stuff REALLY works.

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/59140...-intake-boots#608729

If you use the JIS drivers and Kroil you won't run into the problem again. BUT since you have a fastener that is already damaged here is the very best way to remove it WITHOUT causing damage to the crankcase. Call around to your local machinists and find one that has ELECTRIC DISCHARGE MACHINING (EDM) capability. If they do, they can remove the fastener without causing any damage to the threads in the engine case. If you have never heard of EDM you may find the link below interesting. Trying to drill it out is a bad idea as the bit will end up slipping off-center and wrecking the soft aluminum engine case; Easy-outs break; and it you can apply super force to the fastener to twist it out you may actually crack the aluminum it is stuck in. Check out EDM if at all possible.

www.brokentap.com/services.html

Ed

Thanks. I wasn't aware of the JIS bit, but thinking back to how different bits fit, it makes perfect sense. I've purchased a complete set of stainless steel allen head bolts to replace the existing screws on the crankcase and stator/belt cover so this would be a problem going forward.

Kano Kroil of apparently very hard to source up here in Toronto but Liquid Wrench is easy and test have shown it to be almost as good. I'm going to pick this up today and start soaking it. I hope this works.

Liquid Wrench penetrating spray lubricant is a good product. I've used it to good effect on numerous occasions, including some Ford Escape EGR bolts which are supposedly difficult to remove. In this case however, it may be kinda late.

For stuck fasteners I typically use: LW, heat, & vibration.
Vibration = tap w a wood block & mallet.
Heat = propane torch (or run the engine if possible & when applicable).
Alternate between the 3 plus add time for the LW to soak, overnight or longer if necessary.
You can't use heat &/or vibration in some cases. use common sense.
Also, while unscrewing the fastener, if it starts getting hard to turn, screw it back in, then repeat the removal process: LW, heat, vibration.

On stuck fasteners, a Dewalt impact driver is the best tool I have used. I have a small 12 volt that will remove any fastener on a KZ with out damage. It just works ideal for this problem.

This tool along with penetrating fluid and heat will get it done.

You can use a flat chisel and a hammer. Tap the screw counter clockwise using the cold chisel and hammer.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: On stuck fasteners, a Dewalt impact driver is the best tool I have used. I have a small 12 volt that will remove any fastener on a KZ with out damage. It just works ideal for this problem.

This tool along with penetrating fluid and heat will get it done.

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I use a 19.2 v craftsman battery impact driver. It does work really well for removing bolts.

I used pb blaster and a screw extractor from Home Depot. I only used the drill to seat the extractor then used a crescent wrench to slowly turn it. I had one extractor break on me because it was too small. I used one the size of the bolt and it grabbed. Patience and a lot of penetrant man

Thanks for all of the help guys. A couple of days of soaking in LW and some heat allowed it free enough that I could take it.

John

Excellent! That is so much better than charging ahead with a drill and possibly causing much more damage. Ed