Oil Pressure Questions

Well I got a little over excited about it and tore it apart. I needed to pull the exhaust to get the oil filter out for a change anyways. Here is what I found...a bit debris in the pan...not near what I found a few years ago when I pulled it. The screen does have some debris in it, but nothing that should limit flow significantly (see pic). Then I submerged the pickup portion of the pump into the oil I had drained and spun it by hand and it does seem to be pumping oil. Not sure if this is sufficient or not, so I took a video....see below. I get my "new" one probably friday or saturday, so I can do the same with it and compare.

If it is my light that is just acting up...it only really would be the oil pressure switch right? I just replaced the switch with a NOS one. Question, should there be anything between the switch and the filter tube to help switch it on? I can look right up where the filter screws in and see the bottom of the switch.


Video link.....
flic.kr/p/mWUBk6

You should be able to see the bottom of the switch.

How are your cam bearings? In the past, I've had two Zs that the oil light would indicate on and both of them had worn cam bearings that allowed the pressure to bleed down.

ZERO wrote: How are your cam bearings? In the past, I've had two Zs that the oil light would indicate on and both of them had worn cam bearings that allowed the pressure to bleed down.

Good question. I have no idea. Just had the cams out to double check the cam timing and don't really know how to inspect/measure them.

Bike has 34K on it and as far as I know the bearings have never been replaced.

Where are 31-34 on this diagram located? Is this the pressure relief valve? I don't see them on my bike......
Also, I never had replaced the oring that goes in the oilpan around the oil filter, gonna go ahead and order one today, maybe not a bad idea to replace the oring that goes between the oil pump and crank case too.

Found this in the service manual too....might be worth a shot on my old switch if things are still not right when I reassemble everything....

bLodi wrote: ...Just had the cams out to double check the cam timing....

Uncertain why it would have been necessary to remove the cams incident to checking the cam timing (as opposed to adjusting valve clearances where the bucket is removed in order to access the shim).

In any event, the cam caps should be replaced in exactly the same positions from which they were removed. The FSM may include a photo showing the position of each numbered cap.

Good Fortune!

Two things will cause that.

1 - Somebody left out the o ring that goes between the pan and the filter housing boss on the bottom case.
2- The switch is bad.

Bad pump.....perhaps but I seriously doubt it.

Patton-I should have specified. I took the cams out to reset the timing after I realized both cams appeared to be one tooth retarded. So, I reset them per the manual directions and now they are dead on. I did replace all the caps/bearings as they were previously.

Larry- I did not replace the o ring you are referring to between the pan and lower case the last time I dropped the pan a few years ago. I did notice it seems rather "flattened" this time pulling it out. Possible it just wasn't sealing this whole time, pretty sure I've "overfilled" it since then to keep the light off. I've ordered a new one and every other o-ring in the pan/pump/filter area. You might be right on with that suggestion. I've also ordered an oil pressure gauge so I can see if the oil pressure switch/light are BSing me.

Well, I think Larry was right on with the o ring suggestion. I got my new orings and seals today and finally put it back together along with adding an oil pressure gauge. Filled to the correct amount of oil....no light! And good pressure according to what I've read here on the gauge. That o ring around the filter between the pan and block was really flattened and probably wasn't sealing.
Happy that it's all back together and running great again! Thanks guys!