Cam Degreeing Tip

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09 Mar 2014 20:28 - 09 Mar 2014 20:39 #624672 by LarryC
Cam Degreeing Tip was created by LarryC
That little notch in the bucket for removing the shim can be your best friend when degreeing cams. The notch will perfectly hold a fine dial indicator tip and keep it from walking. In turn, the tip holds the bucket from rotating. A match made in heaven :)


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When practical, assemble the head with only 2 valves and use light springs. That leaves the cylinder on the opposite end available for installing a positive stop to locate TDC. Yes this means you have to pull the head back off after the cam timing is complete but that's no big job. Just snug the head bolts when you're going to degree the cams and then after final assembly of the head, go through the torque sequence.

Make sure the cam sprocket rotates easily on the cam boss. You don't want to have anything fighting you when you're trying to move in small increments. Install all sprocket bolts but only snug one of them to hold the cam.

If you do your preparation correctly the process will take much less time and you won't get frustrated trying to move the timing 1 degree.

You don't have to but I personally degree the cams at running lash.

Larry C.
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Last edit: 09 Mar 2014 20:39 by LarryC.
The following user(s) said Thank You: wireman, jonarmstrong

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10 Mar 2014 04:33 #624692 by Old Man Rock
Replied by Old Man Rock on topic Cam Degreeing Tip
Yup...Worked like a charm (2 light springs, 2 valves only)








1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
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