Oil fouled spark plug...

Ok so this is my first post other than a welcoming post. I recently got an 82 KZ550c and absolutely love it. I have been restroing it a little bit and making it look nice again. I am having trouble with the #1 spark plug fouling on me. When i take it out it is still wet with what seems to be oil. I have been looking around and it seams like it could be a valve stem seal that has gone bad. I am going to do a compression test this weekend to see if that shows me anything more. Does anyone have any other ideas other than the valve stem seal that could have gone bad? I know there are multiple threads on this but it seems like the ones i read there is multiple plugs fouling up and I only have one that is fouling. If you need any more information please let me know and any help would be amazing. Thank you in advance.

John

Wet is usually fuel. Valve seals usually put out smoke after not being started for a while, then the oil burns off and they are O.K.
Does it smoke out the pipe? If so, is it grey or black?
You should also check the sparkk on that plug.

What spark plugs are you using? Ed

It does smoke out he pipes. It still has the stock 4-2 exhaust and smokes out both pipes. It seems to be white smoke so I will say its in grey color according to the 2 options. If it is fuel how would I fix this problem or whatnot? Thank you again

Hey ed,
I believe I am running the NGK D8EA plugs. All four are brand new. I would have to check when I get home from work to check for sure thats what they are but I am so certain thats what they are.

Those are the correct plugs. I asked because running plugs that are in too cold a heat range can cause fouling, but that should not be true with the D8EA plugs. Ed

I ordered a whole new top end gasket set set today from Z1Enterprises.com...do you guys think that will help if i put all new gaskets and seals on?

schmjj01 wrote: I ordered a whole new top end gasket set set today from Z1Enterprises.com...do you guys think that will help if i put all new gaskets and seals on?

Not necessarily, unless you first determine what is causing the smoke. While it is possible the seals are leaking, it would be rather unusual for the problem to be a gasket. A leak-down test would help nail down the cause if it is in fact an oil leak. Without first diagnosing the cause of the problem, you're taking somewhat of a shot in the dark hoping you fix the problem by replacing parts. Ed

OK. Thanks Ed. The gasket set I ordered came with new exhaust gaskets and seals and thats why I bought it since it seemed to be a btter deal to just buy them all together than seperately. Is there a way of doing the leak down test other than buying the leak down test tool? I am fairly mechanically inclined but this is the first bike I ahve done this much work on. I dont want to sound like I dont know anything but yes some of this stuff is fairly new to me but I want to learn.

Auto Zone and some other large chain automotive stores have free tool loaner programs. I have borrowed a couple tools (for a car) that I knew I would only use once. You may want to check with them on their policy. Some tools had to be ordered in for me, but they did not mind doing that at all. Below link shows a leak down tester they show on their web site. If you can borrow it or one similar at another auto store you could do the test for free. Ed

www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OE...entifier=347237_0_0_

Thank you so much! I will definitley be getting with Auto Zone since they know me by name when I walk in lol I am in there all the time (not sure if thats a good thing or bad thing haha)

A leak down test injects air pressure through the spark plug hole to pressurize the combustion chamber.

Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air. Or just use a portable compressed air tank.

Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).

Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).

A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.

A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).

Good Fortune!