Did I put too much oil in the bike?

JohnB wrote: I did an oil change yesterday, and put about 3.5 quarts back in(new oil filter). I filled it up(on the center stand, level ground) and the glass reading showed oil just under the upper level. Today when I went to do my TCLOCKS, I notice the oil is completely filled in the glass window. Is this because my oil is just cold and not circulated, or did I put too much oil in the bike? I don't want to start it with too much oil and then deal with a bad air filter and plugs.

I searched the forum already and couldn't find a definitive answer. sorry if this is an easy question.

If it is a 750 twin, it takes about 4.2 quarts after a full change and filter change.

JohnB wrote: ....
Yep, first bike, got it a month ago. I've wanted one since I was 16. 26 now and I'm in love with it. The only thing I've done is replace the spark plug caps when cylinder #1 started misfiring (seemed to fix it), and had someone balance the carbs because I don't have(nor know how to use yet) a vacuum gauge. Is there a thread for things I should specifically look for in a bike that's new to me, or would you mind listing a few things to get me started? At some point I want to simplify the wiring harness with the resources on this forum. What else?

I would suggest the one thing that will be of more help than anything else is to get a Kawasaki Service Manual. Be sure to get one for your exact year/model, and get a genuine Kawasaki manual rather than Clymer or Haynes. In it you will find TONS of information ranging from normal routine maintenance, to how each of the bike's systems works, to torque specs, and everything else. No one has ever regretted buying one. Check eBay , buy again be sure the one you buy specifies your exact model.

On a different note - why on Earth do you want to mess with the wiring harness? :S :S Is there a problem with the wiring? That's not something that normally needs to be modified unless you plan to chop the bike up. I respectfully suggest you re-consider if you plan to actually ride the bike. No offense intended, but if you are not yet at a skill level at which you can balance the carbs using vacuum gauges (a very simple routine task) it seems unlikely that you are ready to re-engineer the bike's electrical system that the Kawasaki design engineers developed for your specific bike. Ed

Don't take my posts as insulting as that is not my intent, but you followed through with an oil change but are worried about over filling it. I understand, but after your spirited riding and getting it hot, if it wasn't spewing oil out the breather, the level is probable correct or close enough. Level is crucial and I don't do it while on the stand, as the center stands will tip the bike forward, thus the bike is not level. I put in almost everything but .5 qt and then holding the bike upright on their wheels, will allow the oil level to stabilize. Then start the bike, let is pull oil through the filter and upto the head, then turn it off. Give it 5-10mins to settle back to the sump, then stand the bike back off, and top off until it is just below the top line. Done....

There are good maintenance threads out there you can read on such as chain maintenance, brake bleeding, valve shimming, carb cleaning, etc....

Also since you hadn't stated if you verified the oil capacity per the owners manual or service manual, I assume you don't have a service manual. Find one in EBay and buy it. It will be invaluable to you...

Cory

Thanks you all for your responses. No offense taken, I appreciate the comments.

NakedFun wrote: Level is crucial and I don't do it while on the stand, as the center stands will tip the bike forward, thus the bike is not level

Thanks for the suggestion. I was using the center stand on the flattest ground I could find (In SF, which admittedly might not be as flat as I thought). I will check it on both wheels on flatter ground next time.

650ed wrote: I would suggest the one thing that will be of more help than anything else is to get a Kawasaki Service Manual.

I have the owners manual that came with the bike and a pdf of the factory service manual that I downloaded(I think from this website actually). I'm waiting on a hard copy from ebay though because there's nothing like the real thing.

On a different note - why on Earth do you want to mess with the wiring harness? :S :S Is there a problem with the wiring?

The old harness looks like a rats nest complete with electrical tape splices. In the very least I will re-splice those with solder and shrinkwrap. I'm trying to do preventative maintanence, and I figured with an old bike whose wiring has been tampered with, the best idea would be to just do it all over the right way. Your post has me thinking otherwise though.

if you are not yet at a skill level at which you can balance the carbs using vacuum gauges (a very simple routine task) it seems unlikely that you are ready to re-engineer the bike's electrical system that the Kawasaki design engineers developed for your specific bike.

My vehicles have all been fuel injected so I've never dealt with carbs before... never needed to learn how to balance them. It's a lack of exposure, not necessarily skill. I'm confident in my electrical ability to do a wiring harness, but if you think that's unnecessary then I won't bother.

bountyhunter wrote: If it is a 750 twin, it takes about 4.2 quarts after a full change and filter change.

It's the inline4. Manual says 3.7 with an oil filter change.

Z1Driver wrote: Having to use the street would prove to be a pain.

Yes... yes very much. :laugh:


The assessment is that I wasn't on the flattest of ground when I was filling it, nor when I when I was reading it. I took it to the flattest ground I could, drained oil until I could see the level drop just below the top marker, and measured it to see that I went through all this trouble to let out a measly .2 liters. Final realization: I was being paranoid. :pinch:

Thanks for all your help and reassurance!

I usually view mine cold. Or after the bike has sat at least a few hours. One possibility, is that you may have fuel getting dumped into the crankcase. Especially if you drained some and it comes up again. If this happens, you may want to smell for gas in the oil from your filler cup. Would have to fix the issue and replace the oil and filter before every starting that engine again. Hopefully this is not the case, and it was just a matter of overfilling.

Ah, the good old rat's nest. Now I understand. Still, unless you plan to make serious mods to the bike (personally, I hope not) I would use the same wiring layout as the stock harness. The Kawasaki Service Manual will include a good color coded wiring diagram, so that will help. When you get around to doing it be sure to ask questions here. There are some good places to get the correct connectors and even most of the correct color wires.

One thing I would highly recommend is using F4 Self-fusing Silicone Tape to wrap the wires. This stuff is great. It looks much like electrical tape, but that's where the resemblance ends. When you use it you stretch it as you wrap things (wires, sink drains, you name it). Stretching it activates some magic molecules in it and makes it bond to itself. Of course, it insulates electrical connections. What's so great about it is that it doesn't have any gummy adhesive and it doesn't stick or bond to the wires themselves. So if you ever need to remove it there is no sticky residue, plus heat doesn't make any gooey stuff seep out like electrical tape. A 36' roll goes a long way because you stretch it to use it. Here are a couple links about it. Ed

www.f4tape.com/
www.amazon.com/Products-F4TapeBlack-F4-T...1-1&keywords=f4+tape

Here's an easy way to check oil level when there's no center-stand or assistant to hold the bike balanced upright.

While sitting astride the bike, use an inexpensive pocket style telescoping mirror to see the oil level through the sight glass. Such mirrors are readily available from almost anywhere automotive tools are sold.

No precariously trying to hold the bike steady and level while squatted down and bent over or on your knees beside the bike.

Works even better with a flashlight or work-light on the floor with beam directed at the sight glass.



Good Fortune!

You guys all rock. Problem solved along with ideas for new goodies to add to my toolbox.