Engine oil viscosity

10W 40 or 20W 50 :huh:

Which to use

Either is acceptable, but unless you live in a very hot climate or run the bike very hard I would recommend 10W-40. At least, that's what I have always used. The lower viscosity allows it to circulate easier when the engine is cold. Ed

650ed wrote: Either is acceptable, but unless you live in a very hot climate or run the bike very hard I would recommend 10W-40. At least, that's what I have always used. The lower viscosity allows it to circulate easier when the engine is cold. Ed

Will 20W 50 provide enhanced wear protection, for an extended time (between oil changes) compared to 10W 40?

daveo wrote:

650ed wrote: Either is acceptable, but unless you live in a very hot climate or run the bike very hard I would recommend 10W-40. At least, that's what I have always used. The lower viscosity allows it to circulate easier when the engine is cold. Ed

Will 20W 50 provide enhanced wear protection, for an extended time (between oil changes) compared to 10W 40?

No. The recommended oil change intervals are the same for either weight oil. Ed

Shell Rotella 15W-40. Good stuff. Cheap. Get the synthetic is you'd rather which is 5W-40.

Run Rotella 15W-40 non- sync. You can pu a 4 qt container for $11.99 or less on sale.

No need to run sync oil.

:pinch: I run rotella in all my bikes , turbo or N/A.....15-40 No synthetic for me :S

turboking wrote: :pinch: I run rotella in all my bikes , turbo or N/A.....15-40 No synthetic for me :S

+1
I've been using Brad Penn V2 "Green Oil" for a couple riding seasons, and started out with a case of 10W40, and switched to 20W50 last year, and like the way the engine runs with that. It takes a little longer to thin-down (when warming up), but the engine runs quieter, especially on those (nearly forgotten) hot days.

daveo wrote:

turboking wrote: :pinch: I run rotella in all my bikes , turbo or N/A.....15-40 No synthetic for me :S

+1
I've been using Brad Penn V2 "Green Oil" for a couple riding seasons, and started out with a case of 10W40, and switched to 20W50 last year, and like the way the engine runs with that. It takes a little longer to thin-down (when warming up), but the engine runs quieter, especially on those (nearly forgotten) hot days.

brad penn is the old green "kendall" oil for those that aren't old enough to remember...........you can get it in straight weights.......IMO....good stuff for racing.....a local speed shops sells it close to me for about $5 a quart. :S
I get my rotella on sale usually at wallyworld......... :side:

turboking wrote: :pinch: I run rotella in all my bikes , turbo or N/A.....15-40 No synthetic for me :S

"all my bikes"...a mighty herd of wild beasts! :ohmy: :woohoo: :whistle:

daveo wrote:

650ed wrote: Either is acceptable, but unless you live in a very hot climate or run the bike very hard I would recommend 10W-40. At least, that's what I have always used. The lower viscosity allows it to circulate easier when the engine is cold. Ed

Will 20W 50 provide enhanced wear protection, for an extended time (between oil changes) compared to 10W 40?

No. I use 10-40 in the winter and in the summer I use a 50-50 blend of 10-40 and 20-50. But 10-40 alone is adequate. The most important thing is to change the oil and not push it. factory spec is 3000 miles, I change it sooner.

Actually, there is something far more important: do NOT use an energy conserving oil. They will make your clutch slip.
Second to that is to use an oil with good shear qualities for the transmission. Motorcycle oils have these qualities. Diesel oil, such as the aforementioned Rotella, also have these qualities at a significantly lower cost.
Dealer's choice.